| Putting the Mazda away for the winter: - Should I remove the wheels to avoid them being munched by the concrete ? - Should I disconnect the battery. If so, what is the likelihood of my Clifford alarm ever working when I reconnect it ? - What else do I need to do ? (11/99) |
| No expert at this as my '5 is my only car, so used all year round. However I recall classic car magazines recommending pushing a car backwards or forwards regularly if it isn't used for long periods to prevent the tyres flattening. Also I've read in the Saturday Telegraph Motoring supplement advice column about a device called an "Airflow" battery conditioner that is meant to keep the battery charged when not used for long periods. (11/99) |
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- Should I remove the wheels to avoid them being munched by the concrete ? It's certainly worth sitting the car on axle stands. It's even better to take it out for a run every weekend! - Should I disconnect the battery. If so, what is the likelihood of my Clifford alarm ever working when I reconnect it ? You can get those chargers that plug into the cigar socket. Never used one though. (11/99) |
| They only work on the 5 if you leave the key in the "Acc" position. (11/99) |
| Also don't leave the hand brake on, but do engage/ disengage the clutch at intervals to prevent the plates seizing. This happened to me with a Frogeye Sprite that had only been left for a couple of winter months. The method the classic car garage used to 'unstick' it was pretty horrifying and I'm glad they only told me about it afterwards ..... It involved driving round a pub car park at high speed and presumably crashing gears all over the place :-0 (11/99) |
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As mine is effectively stored out of doors during winter, I remove the brake pads and apply a film of oil to the discs - remembering to degrease them in spring before replacing the pads. Before I did this the pads would stick even with the handbrake off. I also take the battery off altogether. Otherwise the dark current will drain it during storage. The ECU in my '91 isn't affected by this, newer models may be. I don't know how removing the battery affects insurance if you need an immobiliser fitted. Is it considered immobilised without a battery? Before restarting after storage pull the injection fuse and turn the engine over to circulate the oil. (11/99) |
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After a lot of thought and a few pints I have decided to buy a 3 series BMW (I know, I know!!....). However I have not completely lost the plot and will be keeping my '92 Roadster as well. Problem is that I have no garage or access to a garage in which to store my '5. So what should I do? At the moment I am stuck with the idea of leaving it in the driveway and buying a car cover for it. Can anyone recommend a good outdoor car cover that won't damage the paintwork and will allow the car to breath (if it needs to!). Remember it will be covering the car for probably 50 weeks of the year and will be subject to good old Irish coastal weather. Can anyone else think of what I should do (after the summer) when the car will not be driven for 3-4 weeks at a time. Battery disconected etc, etc. Also any idea of prices and places where I can buy a good outdoor cover? (6/00) |
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I've got one - have used it every night since I bought it at Billing last year from Moss. Cost about 80 (discounted) No problems - it's breathable and kept the car nice and dry over the winter. The metalwork is damp after heavy rain, but only superficially. You have to tie it down - mine blew off once and I live in a nice sheltered valley. It has eyes ready for this - I have a cord attached with a karabiner which I throw under the car and attach to a loop on the other side. It takes about a minute to get the thing out of the garage (where my wife's car lives) and put it over my car. Another place that advertises them is Cover Systems - (UK) 01933 410851 MX-5 outdoor cover 94. Don't get a non-breathable one - I'm sure the condensation would defeat the object. Not using the car for 3-4 weeks at a time is not the best treatment, but if you disconnect the battery I think you should be OK without doing anything else - be careful to check the brakes when you do drive off - they'll either be wet or rusty, but it'll be superficial. It'd be a good idea to spray the engine bay with WD-40 on a regular basis - it keeps condensation off stuff, and eliminates that nasty white encrustation you get on the ally bits. Hint - get the Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue (0115 930 5454). They do some quick release battery connectors. (6/00) |
| Classic Additions, Stert House, Stert, nr Devizes, Wilts SN10 3JD, UK Tel: 01380 720970 / 720419 Fax: 01380 727062 / 724053 E-mail: info@classicadditions.co.uk http://www.classicadditions.co.uk/ (6/00) |
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The only british site was http://www.thoroughbred-covers.co.uk;
the prices page Try http://www.instantshelters.com/garage.html - though it's an American site - I have an E Z Up myself - it came from B&Q for 99 plus 80 for the sides - it's not car shaped however being square and they're not selling them any more either. Other American sites include: Or some far eastern sites: |
| Seen on the m2miatalist, someone bringing his miata out of storage and he mentions reducing the tyre pressure from 50psi to 28psi. Is it a good thing to raise the tyre pressure when storing? It is not practical to put my Mx on axle stands and I won't be around to drive it, so maybe this is an alternative strategy to stop the tyres from developing flatspots? (3/01) |
| It is recommended .. (raising tyre pressures for storage) ... but my tyres wear out too quick for that! (3/01) |