| With the winter upon us, but the beautiful sunny weather we're having lately my thoughts turn to windstoppers again. I know some people think they're a waste of time, but after a frozen ear this morning I'm thinking again. I don't want an Oris, don't really like the look of them and to save a bit of cash ( as I haven't got any - house move and all ! ) I like to do a DIY one. Question is, anyone got any designs/plans I could use. I thought of using a couple of rails screwed to the seatbelt turrets and a shaped piece of lexican or similar slotted into it. I've heard there may be a similiar idea on the miata.net but couldn't find it myself. Any ideas or suggestions ( clean please! ) gratefully received. Once I have a working windstopper I'll post the details onto the list (11/99) |
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I've made my own. It pretty much matches your description. Rectangular piece of bronze tinted Lexan, top corners rounded off to match the curve of the corners of the seats, height level with top of seats, width = that between seat belt towers. Works brilliantly. However, there are some difficulties. I managed to pull strings and get a small piece of Lexan. Otherwise, it comes in sheets 3m x 2m. Mine's 3mm thick and is OK, but doing it again I'd use 5mm. A sheet costs over £300 - but would make 18. One key thing is to make sure there is no gap between the bottom of the blocker and the shelf. The forces from behind are enormous - the wind tries to push the blocker forwards. Mine is OK up to 125 mph. You need it far enough from the seats that it doesn't get pushed on to the backs of the seats - the resultant banging is very irritating - but not too far or it's less effective. Also it's good to still be able to snap the hood boot on to the thingys. A lot depends on how much seat travel you need. You need strong brackets, and preferably support along the bottom. Mine is attached to my Lovatt Brace Bar. I made a template/test rig from plywood - much cheaper than lexan! It is low enough to be only just visible in the mirror, and can stay in place at all times - even with the hood up. (ie when it rains) It is possible to unzip the window, though I have a very soft non-standard (of course!) window and don't bother - I use a "folding tube" on the outside of the window. (11/99) |
| I've found these sites that you might be interested in http://www.eunos.com/keith/windblok.html http://www.miata.net/garage/windblock2.html http://www.infinet.com/~tkpennin/windblkr.html (11/99) |
| I've seen several photos of mx5's with a roll bar and a windstop. Question is: why not use the existing roll bar as the "frame" for the windstop? Have any manufacturers or DIYers done this? (11/99) |
| Not seen any .. Oris have a roll-bar add-on for Hard-dogs.. but I was thinking about this too.. i.e discrete twin hump roll-bar (i.e. not about the head rests) with SS mesh in humps .. and some sort of foldable filler in the middle so you can still put the roof up from the driver's seat.. still thinking about it.. and sourcing the roll-bar - seeing as the Hard-dog roll-bar uses 3mm wall thickness. .. so if you solve the puzzle in a neat way .. let me know.. I have about 5 designs swirling around but I'm not happy yet.. (11/99) |
| I recall seeing a Porsche Boxster with a clear plastic windstopper slotted between the roll hoops. Not sure if this is standard. I'll have to take a close look next time I see one with the top down. The other (cheap and simple?) alternative I'd wondered about was mesh fabric attached to the head rests and the back shelf. Saw something like this on a Z3, but not sure how effective it would be. (11/99) |
| One person has done this by attaching a thickish piece of Lexan to his roll bar. It looks really good - but IMHO it's flawed because there is (or at least was when I last saw it) a large gap between the bottom of the Lexan and the shelf. There's no reason why this idea can't work well, but you must ensure that there is no gap between the windstopper and the shelf. (11/99) |
| The whole point of a windblocker is to eliminate the blast of air that comes forward from behind, between the seats, to fill the low pressure area (ie the cockpit) caused by the windscreen. The air will surely find its way through the gap. If you get the design right, you'll only be left with some draught between the windblocker and the window (if it's up). That's bearable - you can always eliminate it by putting the hood up ;-( Contrary to received wisdom, a rigid lexan windblocker is quite effective with the windows down - so you can obey Bob Hall's maxim ("Never drive with the hood or windows up") and still not freeze to death! (11/99) |
| I would definitely recommend a rigid windblocker rather than a "floppy" one, and the use of lexan rather than mesh. Just MHO. (11/99) |
| On a couple of occasions I've forgotten to clip down the 'flap' on the ORIS windblock, and a gale whistles though the resultant gap and the flap blows forward almost horizontally. Not nice ;~) The forward loading at speed, even on a mesh widow is quite high. If you try to push the blocker backwards, there is a lot of resistance. (11/99) |
| My mate has a Porsche Boxster and the wind stop was some extra costing loads of dosh anyway, that fits between the two roll bars which looks like its slotted in to two clips. Its only Perspex though and I'm sure the 'idea' could be used on a MX5 with roll bars. The SLK uses just a mesh nylon cover which slots over both bars, don't know how it works but it doesn't look too good. (11/99) |
| Do they make a big difference in driving top down?? (11/99) |
| From what I gather, they vary. I think I read (miata.net) that the Oris windstop is generally thought to be the best. It certainly looks really cool but it's expensive. (11/99) |
| I use adevelopment of the Tanner (I think) original blocker. However, on of the neatest ideas I have seen is the use of the clear vinyl as in the rear window. It is cut to the shape of the area between the seats, reinforced at the edges, and then stretched and held in place by straps ( I'll call them compression straps, a la back pack etc.) around the the tombstone head rests. When not in use it is rolled up in it's own soft bag behind a seat. (11/99) |
| The windblocker on the S2000 is the best I've seen, a hinged perspex screen between the two roll hoops. Folds down to allow access to the back shelf. (11/99) |
| I too bought my '97 1.8iS in the warmth of early September, it then got chilly so I splashed out on a Windstop from Classic Additions- I was quite literally driving in shirt sleeves (short ones at that!) on Saturday 13th Nov as it was nice and sunny down here in Sussex. I had the heater at about half way and was perfectly comfortable on a one hour whiz round the local country lanes. Max speed no more than 60 - we have a lot of tractors, horses and geriatrics round here! The Windstop has made an enormous difference and stays up even with the top up. (11/99) |
| Anyone interested in seeing before during and after fitting pictures for one of Mike Satur's Fx windbreaks take a look at http://www.stox.clara.net/satur.html In retrospect I should have got some more close ups but I might get round to that later. The pics were taken at Billing this year. No apologies for the rest of the site, just playing - spot who bought a scanner recently :) (11/99) |
| I wonder if anyone here can think of a good solution to the windblocker problem, paying £140 for a bit of mesh seems a bit steep to me, I'd rather have some sort of fabric/removable behind the seats arrangement, which used the seats for support? this would cost next to nothing and almost certainly work as well. I'd only consider paying the price if the windblocker was so strong it would also act like a rear strut brace similar to the MK2's bolted between the seat-belt towers Any idea's or solutions? I'd be grateful, my left ear is freezing. (12/99) |
| [Somebody] has a superb working model using a sheet of Lexan. (12/99) |
| I'm looking at ways to get this produced - sometime in the new year there'll be pictures on a web site and a provisional order book posted. It will be a LOT cheaper than the Oris version. (12/99) |
| I have one too - it cost me £0.00p - we use the stuff in our machine guards at work. Go see it at : http://www.aesthetica.com/ukmx5/images/blocker.jpg (12/99) |
| It's amazing stuff - it's nearly bullet proof. You can take a small piece and hammer a nail through it (it's like trying to hammer through concrete - a LOT of resistance, but eventually the nail goes through), but the material doesn't shatter like you'd expect. It's important that you don't have easily breakable stuff just near your head. It's not cheap, though - unless you ... (12/99) |
| I am still debating about which windblocker will be the best.. Anyone have any advice to give? I know I don't want the £265 whizz bang one with hoops and perspex, I'm thinking of maybe some style bars or a strut brace and putting on the perspex myself.. at least it would then serve a dual purpose and stiffen up the back end as well as look unobtrusive.. They don't say in the ads how they actually are fixed in five minutes.. probably not bolted between the towers then? (12/99) |
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I know its the whizz bang one, but there's a few photos of Mike Satur fitting it to my car at Billing this year: http://www.stox.clara.net/satur.html It's bolted on the seat belt towers, and has a solid alu bar across the back, fitting over the factory fitted flap thingy (sorry, that's the mazda wind-break :) ) (12/99) |
| The windblocker as supplied with a SLK fits over the hoops and is just black fabric material. I guess something like this could be modified for the MX5's with it fitting over the headrests. It also folds up to a very small size which is MX5 boot friendly.... Just an idea.. (12/99) |
| Came across the following style bar/windstopper some of you might
be interested in Looks quite good FOXSTER ROLL WINDSTOP HOOPS These are padded steel hoops supported on a cast aluminium subframe which is bolted into the bodyshell, although NOT tested in a live roll situation and can not therefore be sold as a roll protection, they are none the less a very substantial piece of kit. They are designed to reduce the wind buffeting at speed. Price guide is £499 plus vat and shipping, fitting time is approx 3 hours. (1/00) |
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I have been designing something similar in the back of my mind for the past 6 months... but I need it to work with a Matt Glass rear window .. don't think that one will ..and I want mine to support 2 tonnes in any direction ... and the middle section must get out of the way so you can lift the roof/glass from the driver's seat... all of which is a bit difficult .. I have the 2.5" SS tubes worked out .. and was going for an inverted U like the new roadsters have (Boxster, S2000, SLK..) .. anyway .. I need a functional windstopper for this summer!! http://www.british-cars.org.uk/satur/mx5/index.html = mx5 index http://www.british-cars.org.uk/satur/mx5/images/foxster.jpg = picture (1/00) |
| Have been chatting to an outfit called Classic Additions in Devizes Wiltshire regarding a wind deflector that they sell. Apparently {1} it can be in place with the hood up {2} it folds flat on the parcel shelf {3} it allows the rear.window to be un-zpped by swivelling round while seated in the driving seat. It.sounds just the thing I am looking for to help keep spouses hairdo in place. Has anyone tried one? Any comments? (3/00) |
| I had the same problem (bolts loosening) with my Oris Windstop (sold by Moss). I solved this by fitting pairs of very thin washers at each end of the pivot bolts and in the centre and a new nyloc nut. This also allowed the bolts to be tighter stopping any creaking/squeaking noises. For your information, the Oris can also be left in place with the hood up, folds flat on the parcel shelf with the top down, allows the rear window to be unzipped by swivelling round while seated in the driving seat and helps keep spouses hairdo in place. I think the prices are about the same so it's just down to which design you prefer. (3/00) |
| Yes! had one since September and don't even put a sweater on if the sun is shining! (Roof down even if it isn't) My only prob is that despite spring washers, moving the deflector up and down loosens the bolts after a while - solution - the right size spanner in the boot! Otherwise I can highly recommend them. Also very quick on delivery (3/00) |
| Glyn I've had the ORIS one from Moss on both my Mk l 5s and they really do work well. Initial fitting is about a 10 minute job, but once the two brackets are fitted it takes seconds to fit or remove. It comes with a black storage case which fits on the back panel or can be stored in the boot when not in use. They can be left up with the hood raised but it's a bit of a pain to run the zip round (especially with a glass back window), and frankly, I can't see the point. With the roof down, the blocker can be lowered flat with one hand if necessary. (4/00) |
| My first impression upon opening box from classicadditions was of disappointment in whether it was up to doing the job ( it looked cheap and not very substantial ). However after fitting this morning I felt an apology to classicadditions was in order. It was simple to fit ,it has stopped up, so far, without retightening of locknuts. I have put up hood with it in place and without any difficulty. I've zipped in window with no trouble. Its also stopped the draughts, which is why any of us would want one in first place, so on the scale of things I suppose £140 ain't too bad. (4/00) |
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I received mine (Donutz windblocker) yesterday and I am pleased with it. The windshield is made of a strong perspex type material and comes with two side mounting supports that you need to screw into the seat belt supports that are situated behind the seats. Donutz supply comprehensive instructions with pictures that aids placing the mounts in the correct position. You will need a drill with a 3.2 or 3.5 bit attached to drill through the plastic trim and into the metal work being careful of whats behind! (I found drilling with a 2.5 and then a 3.5 was the easiest way). Once you've aligned it all etc as per instructions its a case of slotting the shield in, pealing away the acetate protection sheets and bobs your uncle! The perspex is tinted which is ideal as it doesn't glare. Tools for the job are a phillips screwdriver (+ headed), drill with a 3.5 bit, a bit of masking or elcectrical tape to keep both side mounts aligned and donutz supply the mounting screws! Easy peasy. Your height i.e where you have your seat will affect where you mount the windsheild but as I've already stated the instructions tell you what to do anyway. It took me about half an hour tops to fit it - the trickiest part being to make sure that both side supports are screwed into the same position! What's it like to use? Very easy in fact - just slide it in and slide it out - OOOHHHH ERRR! Its ideal as you can store it in the boot too. The way I have mounted mine means I can leave it in situe whilst my roof is up. I understand that Donutz are trying to sort out some bags to protect the shield when not in use because it will get scratched if you dump it in the boot. I wonder if they can get a bag that as well as being able to put it in the boot you can place it on the back shelf making use of the hood cover poppers to prevent it from moving around on your back shelf? We all know how precious boot space is! I took my car up to 80mph and it had no problems. You might think the perspex is perhaps not stiff enough and perhaps a glass substitute might be better. The shield moves very very fractionally when you go along but if you mount it right you'll have no problems with it hitting your seat. If you have a hood cover the instructions state you could cut it to allow it to all fit nicely. However I managed to combat this as I didn't want to get the needle and thread out! You can easily do it if the homework is done first. Does it do its job? YES! For the first time I didn't have to drive along on a sunny day with a fleece over my t-shirt because the wind was cold. It makes your car like a sun trap almost and my missus has stopped moaning aobut the wind blowing her long hair all over the place! Personally I would not comprehend paying 140+ for one of these devices when at the end of the day they do the same thing. This device is competively priced and is worth its money. If you want me to send you some pictures of what it looks like shout! If you want one give Andy a shout at Donutz and he should sort you out. I also ordered a grille and this has certainly smartened up the front end. (4/00) |
| I'd be interested to know how this fitted - I'd like one as it seems a good price, but I cannot drive my V-spec without the seat hard against the back, which means the headrest projects a bit past the seatbelt mount. And with the hood boot cover in place there is very little of the pillar left showing to bolt anything onto. (5/00) |
| I too have the seat as far back as it goes. there are 2 ways to
fit the blocker. 1 as the instructions say (well written by the way) this involves setting it up as far back as it goes and will mean some modifications to the boot cover. 2 if you get the seat in the position you have it normaly, then hold the blocker in place, angle it slightly to the rear of the car there is just the right ammount of space to get it between seat/boot cover/rear window (mine is a matt c glass one) leaving the boot cover untouched. and it works fine. you can leave it in place and put the roof up, but with a glass window it is a 2 man job, easier to remove the blocker and stick it in the boot. (5/00) |
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I fitted an ILM windblocker today. Fitting took literally minutes, once you know where it goes. This is because there are no instructions with the blocker ! But...never mind, it ain't rocket science ! I fitted the blocker by fitting it behind the large "popper" that the tonneau pops on to. You'll know which one....there are two either side of the car...one in front of the seat belt, and the other behind it towards the rear. Use the latter. Well, bolted on and adjusted and time to test my handiwork (the ILM blocker IS adjustable via the brackets that secure it to the car - I put it in flush with the carpet and the poppers for the tonneau, although I can't see any reason why you couldn't turn the bracket the other way and raise the blocker an inch or two.) Does it work ? You bet !! At even 70 or 80 its incredible - with the windows up there is almost no buffeting at all - My other half wore her hair down - sceptic was instantly converted!! She was amazed. With the windows down, okay, there's some backflow, but its very much reduced. It's not removable, unlike others. Once its on, its on. But, fold the roof down, and then fold it flat. Job done. Recommended. It will transform our car, I can assure you of that. (5/00) |
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Well, here's all I know: Scimitar International: http://www.mx5parts.co.uk - sell the IL Motorsport blocker - this is the one I've gone for. (See immediately above) Cost me 152 which is 140 plus your delivery charge. It looks OEM, that is black frame and mesh inside bit, if you know what I mean. Classic Additions: http://www.classicadditions.co.uk - sell their own windblocker. Looks very similar to the ILM one as above. Cost 149, but I'm not sure if this includes delivery. Several people on the list have this fitted. Donutz: http://www.donutz.co.uk - sell a Perspex type windblocker. Cost 65 incl P&P so this may be your one if you're on a budget. Obviously not OEM, but more effective I'm sure. Oris: http://www.seriousauto.com/windstop.htm. Again, OEM like. Cost very similar to ILM from Scimitar. Mazda OEM: http://www.mazda.co.uk (really ? Really !) In my opinion, overpriced, and overrated. It folds. It costs an arm and a bloody leg. Its not very good unless you're vertically challenged. But, if it came fitted on your car, its a windblocker I suppose. (5/00) |
| Anyone know how well a Mk2 OE windblocker will fit in a Mk1? I had a nose around in a local Mazda garage and like the look of the Mk2 windblocker, wondered if it would fit in a Mk1? I'm considering a windblocker, but am a bit put off by the size of the more popular aftermarket types, e.g. the Oris one. I'm not bothered by the lowered wind-blocking ability of the OE one, it seems functional enough whilst looking neat. I found an article on Miata.net which seems to suggest that the '99 windblocker would fit a '92 car, but has anyone tried it? (4/01) |
| Yep it fits couple of people have done in NE region and was fine. Gap between seatbelt towers is 5mm wider on M1 than M2 but that will not really matter. Just take care when screwing it into place. (4/01) |
| It connects to each side by the soft boot snap bolt and another screw, but I believe you will need to drill a hole for the second screw. I do know of a couple of people who have simply secured it with the boot snap bolt and haven't bothered with the second screw. Not sure what the position is if you have a brace bar fitted though. (4/01) |
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Had one on for a year now, fits perfect! I just had to unscrew some tonneau bolts, put the wind block in place and replace the bolts. Not tried the 'other' ones, but I am led to believe they are much more efficent. I am however very happy with the reduction in noise and cabin turbulence provided by fitting the OEM one. Plus, 1. Has a handy pocket for stuff. 2. Doesn't block the mirror if it is up or down. 3. Closes the parcel shelf so that stuff doesn't fall into the cabin when you brake. (4/01) |
| yes it fits. Seen it on a few MK1's over here. Might interfere with a rear glass window if you have one. (4/01) |
| It doesn't, I have one fitted. (4/01) |
| Have to tell one of the guys here as he removed the windblocker after installing a rear glass window. I thought I read the same but he insisted that he tried it and didn't work. Could be that the windblocker was wrongly installed in the first place. (4/01) |
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The windblocker will drop straight into any MK 1 without a brace bar - i.e. any 1.6 from '89 to '98. The brace bar in the 1.8 gets in the way, but some people say it doesn't make much difference anyway, so it can be removed... There are some pictures on my site showing how well it fits into the 1.6, and how much the brace bar in my 1.8 gets in its way: http://www.mx-5.org/south-central, and look at the 'Modifications' section. (4/01) |
| Hmmm... after re-reading my message I can see it can be misinterpreted. I definitely did not intend to suggest that it's a good idea to remove the brace bar. (4/01) |
| A chap up here in the NE region had a 98 Berkeley with chrome rear brace bar, and he had the mkII windblocker fitted. (4/01) |
| The positioning of the Blocker is critical - too far back and the window won't go down at all and too far forward and the seat hits the Blocker, when reclined, and annoyingly squeaks away. I used the hood cover stud for the bottom screw hole (on either side) and then rocked the blocker to find the ideal position which I then spotted through with an electric drill - a couple of 'Self-Tappers' latter and all was done. Even with the above, I do have to persuade the glass to go fully down on occasion - it's quite easy really with practice. (4/01) |
| I fitted a MK2 windblocker to a MK1 1.8iS (with fitted brace bar) this weekend. Due to the brace bar the windblocker fits such that the netted portion is virtually vertical and the curved blocker (when raised) tilts slightly forward. When the blocker is down it lies flat n top of the brace bar as opposed to folding completely 180 degrees as in the MK2. I used 1 bolt either side, and it was neccessary to drill holes in the seat belt towers to fix this. Aesthetically it doesn't look conspicuously out of place to anyone except an ardent '5 officianado. Performance wise I am very happy. I am only 5'6" and tend to sit low down in the seat, but with the blocker raised I would say it cuts down ca. 80% of buffeting around the neck and ears with only the top of my head still ruffled. One interesting point is that it works best with both windows raised as opposed to the old driver's side down/passenger's side raised when I had no blocker at all. Overall: Very happy and at 90 quid second hand I can't complain. (4/01) |
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I have a "straight" roll bar behind the seats, mounted to the seat-belt mounts and have been looking for some way of using this as a frame/attachment for a windblocker. Motorworld have just started selling a see-through black mesh sun-shade that has a steel hoop hidden in the outer lining. It springs into a rounded rectangle 100cm by 50 cm and twist/folds into a hoop abut 20cm diameter. I've sewn a few black shoe laces to the outer lining to attach it to the roll bar. Perhaps someone could suggest a better attachment method. It takes 3 minutes to fit, looks ok and works up to motorway speeds. Not bad for under £4. (4/01) |
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Sick of seeing my spanking new halfords windblocker trying to
leap out of the car when at speed, I did the following (Sorry,
adds a princely 2 quid to the overall cost.) extra components:
Both available from outdoors-type shops. Took off headrests and headrest covers (easy). Cut one bootlace in half, thread each half between two consecutive stiches at top left of passenger side and top right of driver side covers. replace covers, tie off end of lace around headrest post, leaving a 4cm loop protuding out of the back of each headrest. This is invisible apart from the loops themselves. Take the other bootlace, poke through stitching on trim of sunscreen along the top length, wiggle it along to the other side and poke it back out (do this while watching tv). Put a toggle on each end of this bootlace and hook them into loops on headrests. Use toggles apply tension. Better than a rigid stay because it comes off very easily and still folds up. We drove from Edinburgh to York and back via Leeds with this setup over the weekend - it keeps the sunshade at just the right height and stops it wobbling round like a wild thing. (6/01) |
