Heres what I would recommend for people with stock 5s (most of this applies to Mk1 cars, as that is where my experience is).

1. Drivers training. In my opinion, mods to the car start to make sense once you have exploited what the stock setup can do.
2. Making sure that the stock 5 is in good condition (brake sliding pins, shifter turret oil and seal, tyres, tyre pressures).
3. If you want power, rev the warm engine to +7k RPM during hard driving
4. Konis when the stock shocks are done (usually after 50 k miles or less), combined with stock springs and stock bump stops.
5. A good alignment.
6. Ignition timing at 14 degrees, good ignition wires, a clean air filter, good (not too old plugs), synthetic oil in gearbox, diff and engine.
7. FM or JR anti-roll bars (is that the right English term?), for 94+ cars only FM recommended (JR too stiff).
8. If you want wider wheels, light 15 inch rims with good 195/50 tyres
9. If you are lucky enough to live in an area wher high speed driving is possible, get a Mazda front air dam for much improved high speed stability .

Now the big question: EVEN MORE POWER!

If you are like me and like the stock engine, and just want a bit more power and better throttle response, get a performance exhaust (Thermal or JR), Cold Air Induction Kit (JR), and header. The header gives the least benefit. A different ECU (expensive) will also give more power.

Even more power? Either a supercharger (a well set up system stays rather close to stock throttle response and linearity of power delivery) or a Turbo (max power, less linear power delivery, lag at very low RPM). You might need extra upgrades like bigger brakes if you use a charged car hard.

Note the ranking: Upgrade the driver, then the tyres/suspension, and at last the engine. (3/00)

I would add that chassis braces are a good thing, and essential if you have an early car. ( I have three, rear subframe, front subframe and cockpit)

I wouldn't part with my polished Voodoo gearshift knob - worth every penny, as long as you buy a tube of Solvol Autosol to polish it regularly. I have polished rings round the three small instruments - definitely improves dash appearance. Throw away the horn button cover (the big black plastic thing) if you have a Momo steering wheel - that's a worthwhile mod for free!.

And I've got a windblocker - essential for long distance high speed top down driving.

Nothing there that I wouldn't do again, except possibly my Super Drager exhaust system - but I wouldn't spend my own money on an exhaust unless it needed replacing, and the Super Drager is out of sight, cost wise. But as I've got it, I love it, even with its disadvantages.

Oh, I nearly forgot my CAI (home made). Definitely worthwhile - but not sure that I would spend any more than I did (~75) on CAI. If you need to replace your air filter, the K&N replacement panel filter is worthwhile. ( I cleaned mine the other day - it certainly catches the c**p!) (3/00)

go see 'More power' at www.quithel.co.uk and 'My car' for bits done by me... .. but others have covered the best bits...

.. I would add extended reach NGK spark plugs as they cost the same as standard ones and are quoted as being power givers .. I have them but cannot comment .. certainly nothing to lose that way.

.. and tyres make a car .. for wet dark nights .. get Bridgestone S02 in 195/50-15 and know you have the best.

.. get those anti-roll bars .. great mod with no real ride penalty.

.. bits to question are ..aftermarket springs ... most are not engineered .. if you want to lower the car get Konis .. you'll need some shockers anyway and these are good reversible lowering ones..

.. and watch the wheel weights .. very hard to find the info but very worthwhile.

.. and a final non power related one .. a custom SS exhaust to allow you to put the spare wheel under the car and release a more adequate boot ... and I suspose cutting the foam out of the bottom of the seat to lower you and give you more lateral support .. not tried the seat back cut out .. but I need the leg room. (3/00)

Mods tried and verdict

1. sebring supercharger - GREAT fun but you can lose low rpm torque when off boost. -sluggish at low rpm ,put a knock sensor/boost timer on and use higher timing to get it back (I'm told)
2. scorpion exhaust *very* loud to start with and pops and splutters a bit with a s/c. very nice sound after 12 months though.. noticeable power gain (would be more so with a forced induction car). Nice crackle on starting! Love this 'zorst...
3. big fat 16" wheels on 205/45 section rubber. Makes your car look great but really buggers the ride quality. Stick to 15s at max - 16s are too heavy. I wouldnt buy 16s again personally....not good on bumpy roads!
4. style bars/cockpit brace. Style bars look great and stiffen the car up a lot Moss ones with rear support make soft-top folding difficult but look hard as nails!!
5. taking the 'cat' off a car. Makes your exhaust louder - a few more peak hp maybe lose low down torque? a bit naughty but my '90 passes MOTs fine....
6. NGK/Magnecore plug leads. look nice, last ages.
7. splitfire/bosch super 4 plugs - tried them once- made no noticeable difference
8. sports panel filter - seemed more eager at all rpm.

DISCLAIMER Of course this is all my personal opinion and personal experience. Other people I'm sure have differing views on the above. (3/00)

I would highly recommend buying the Mazda Miata Performance handbook before doing anything as it sets out very clearly what you get for your money. Don't be put off by the Miata title, it's exactly the same as the '5. It's written by Norm Garrett, the founding father of the '5. Look for it on Amazon.

Step 1 - Advance timing to 14 BTDC. FREE. Horsepower gain (not sure but significant and torquier too). Can't think why mazda set the original timing at 10deg, but I haven't heard of anyone having any problems with this. The only reason I can think of is that some people in hot countries with bad petrol may get some knocking with advanced timing. You will have no problem.

Step 2 - Start from the back. Free up the exhaust first. Fit a better exhaust system. Plenty out there. Get some personal recommendations (Borla, Jackson Racing etc). Better sound more HP and you never have to replace your exhaust again. Maybe 7hp for a very good system. Don't go for a complete free flowing exhaust as you'll lose too much low end torque. You could replace the cat for a better one for about 150 quid, but I'm not sure it is worth it, unless yours is on the way out anyway. I replaced mine altogether with a straight pipe but I won't recommend it with a normally aspirated engine. I only did it for a couple of track days where you could run leaded fuel. The header on the M1 models is great from stock. You could replace it for a slightly better one, but not really worth it in my opinion.

Step 3 - Replace stock filter with a drop-in K&N replacement. Cost around 30 quid. You won't feel the difference, but it does help the engine breath better.

Step 4 - Cold air intake. Fit a better intake system like the Racing Beat or Jackson Racing. This should get you about 10-15 extra hp, especially at the top end. If you do this you don't need step 3.

The best thing to do is 1,2 & 4 all at the same time. It should give you an extra 25hp. You will really notice the difference, especially on the motorway and overtaking. Well worth doing.

How much do you want to spend? I've done all of these at one time or another. Then I took them all off and fitted the supercharger. Lots more power, but to be honest, not as nice to drive as the normally aspirated version with the mods above. (6/00)