Could I use my 1.8 Mk1 MX5 to tow a 1991 Rover 214 or would that put too much strain on the running gear. Actually, now I think about it, I don't suppose it would stress it any more than fitting a 230bph Turbo, though I don't suppose the towing / tie down hooks are made for this kind of stress. Anyone with an informed view out there? (11/99)

.. everything is possible.. some are just not recommended :-)

It all depends what you want to do .. a 5 mile pull with no hills, no traffic, no junctions and a steady 35 mph could be done with a 2CV.. however .. a middle of rush hour dash up some hilly city with lots of junctions would test anything.. especially a car with limited cooling capacity.

So if your cooling is good (would have thought 1.8s has not had enough time to go wrong..) and you are sensible .. yes .. but if it is for someone you would rather not risk your transport for ..then don't .. the towbar kits use the tow hooks .. and they are strong.. just be gentle on pickup and keep the tow rope tight at all times.. and keep an eye on your water temp. gauge. (11/99)

Just a thought; when towing or being towed, just use one of the tiedown hooks. It might seem more sensible to use them both but the result is a very powerful inward force between the 2 chassis rails. I reckon that could cause some damage. Also you want a reasonably long stretchy (nylon?) towrope to cushion some of the shocks. And it's very stressful! (11/99)
NEVER USE THESE TO TOW !! NOT UNLESS YOU WANT THE FRONT OF YOUR CAR REMOVED ANYWAY. They are only used while the car is in transit to be TIED DOWN as all Roadster's and 5's are imported. (12/99)
Garbage and old wifes tales... (12/99)
I thought the tie down hooks and tow hooks were completely seperate things? If you can't tow with the hooks in the mouth how on earth can you move a 'dead' car without a trailer? (12/99)
My Mk 2 Owners Handbook refers to these as Towing Hooks. To quote: "The towing hooks should be used only in an emergency (to get the vehicle out of a ditch or snow bank, for example)". I assume they mean this if you only want the front of the car back in one piece! (12/99)
There are some real facts here .. and they stack up .. basically you can use them with proper care and attention and if you remove them you have no way of moving the car from the front (OK as long as you go front forwards into the hedge... you were planning that were you not??) (12/99)
The manual clearly shows the car being pulled by them and stresses that this should be done straight to avoid nose damage. (1/00)

There seems to be continuing debate on this subject. Notwithstanding the comment that "they are there simply as a point for "tie down" during shipping" and the comment "the manual clearly shows the car being pulled by them", my manual (1990 MX-5) clearly notes that they are definitely intended as towing hooks but for emergency use only.

The exact words are: "The towing hook should be used only in an emergency situation, (for example to pull the vehicle out of a ditch, a snow bank, or mud). When the towing hook is used, always pull the cable or chain in a straight direction with respect to the hook. Do not apply force to a hook from any side direction. To prevent damage do not take up slack in the cable or chain too quickly."

On the previous page the manual gives clear direction re towing the car over a distance and makes no reference to the towing hooks in this context - proper towing equipment is necessary.

I've left them on my car since they're reasonably unobtrusive and could come in useful in an emergency. I've not fitted a grille screen though am considering it after hitting a bird last weekend and ending up with a feather covered radiator (though no visible damage luckily) - however since the towing hooks are at the ends of the aperture, I would have thought it a relatively simple exercise to design a grille to fit whilst leaving the towing hooks in place. (1/00)

PLEASE!!!

They are towing hooks! .. considerable damage will occur if you use them incorrectly but if used correctly I suspect you could lift several cars with them let alone tow one .. but IF used correctly...

People remove them for the looks and the weight but then make the car unrecoverable and untowable .. but this may not be a problem if you still have hooks at the back and you always plan on going front first into the hedge. So remove but be aware. (1/00)

As for the manual clearly showing these hooks used for towing... If the manual says do then do what you feel safe doing and in an emergency sometimes you must do things you wouldn't ordinarilly do. BUT. In my own defense, I am quoting from the MAZDA TECH shop manual and Rods Enthusiasts Shop Manual. Citing Rods,page 1:9 paragraph 9, UK printing 1994: "Mazda cautions that the hooks at the front and rear of the car are for tie down purposes only and are not designed for towing. They(Mazda)state that damage to the car bodywork may result if these points are used for towing". So do it you must and have no other option but I checked the three different owners manuals for my cars '93, '95 , '96 and all say not intended for towing. Now that could be different in later year models but I have seen them damaged by tow truck operators in just this way. Just my opinion! (1/00)
Hey .. but in the US of A .. if they said towing ...you would stick the car behind a mobile hotel with 12 litre engine and tow it for 5,000 miles .. then complain if anything went wrong .. but a car should be suspended for towing normally by driven wheels ..as any car really likes. ...here in this little place we can only manage about 800 miles before we run out of road .. there are no real mobile hotels on wheels .. and people would think you very mad for going past that nice garage that could fix your car .. (1/00)
I keep the hooks and bolts in the boot just in case.... Not terribly difficult for AA recovery to refit if in an emergency. (1/00)
There's a difference between towing and pulling out of a ditch. For the former there are *much* better options, for the later there aren't. (1/00)
I have removed the tie down hooks and if the car needs towing, seeing that the drive wheels should be off the ground (at least I think so ?) then I'll wait for a flatbed truck to take me to a garage. If its just to get the car out of a ditch (god help me not) then I am sure there is something v.strong under the car that you can use, any ideas ? (1/00)
There not actually much underneath that isn't strong enough for this job (within reason!). But the problem is that it's easy to damage bodywork with the rope. So if you're worried keep a tie-down and the bolts in the back. But mine went into the green recycling bin. :-) (1/00)
I took mine off ages ago and threw them in the bin. Why have towing hooks on the front when you need to tow the car with the rear wheels off the ground anyway (unless you disconnect the prop shaft as the manual says, but I doubt even the nice AA man would do that? I'll wait for the flat bed. (1/00)

I'm in the shipping business, and when cars are tied down (if at all - dedicated car carriers have active stabilisers so roll is minimal, unlike cross-channel ferries), this is invariably done with webbing strops around the wheels. If they are tied down, the load, at it's worst, would still be light - so why are the hooks built and attached like a brick ****house? Finally, the way the hooks are attached seems all wrong - Yes, they do have a slight bend, but this is to keep them unobtrusive in the mouth. But they are attached to a horizontal surface - If the load is downwards they should be attached to a vertical surface, otherwise a very large bending moment is applied to the hooks, which would damage the bolts. I'm not saying that they cannot be used to "tying down" (they are, after all, built like a brick ****house), but they were certainly not designed by a competent engineer with that purpose in mind!

Finally, although I have not had the nose off for a closer examination, they seem to be attached to a very solid point on the car, so, when towing, unless the tow line/rod gets to an angle where it makes contact with the nose cone, and so long as the tow is not started with a jerk (i.e. by a jerk - interpret as you wish!!), I don't see how the car can come to any harm. Has anyone actually experienced damage with a professional tow on these hooks? (1/01)

I had to be taken home on the back of one recently when I managed to break a brake pipe on the M4 and loose brakes (scary enough). Getting the car onto the low loader would have resulted in much damage had I not had the tie downs still in place. I can't see a contract 3rd party company (it was who the AA sent - not one of their own trucks) taking the time and care to not do damage or wait for me to fit a hook at the roadside. I was just about to remove them at that point too and have decided to leave them on. I have 2 at each end and you just have to make sure they only use one of them. To be honest they don't look bad if kept clean and are body colour so why remove them? (9/01)

Sorry to reopen this, but I think my recent experience adds a little to the list discussion we had a couple of weeks ago. For anyone who doesn't know by now, I was towed by the Silverstone circuit recovery vehicle from the track at Luffield corner to our paddock, then by Allan Legg in his white van from there to a lay-by t'other side of Silverstone village, and from there on an AA recovery vehicle to home.

Before Trax, I replaced one tow hook (tie down hook) complete with a little yellow arrow pointing to it. Thank goodness! I got the feeling that I would have been unceremoniously towed off the circuit by anything handy, suitable or not. I put it on as a bit of a joke, never expecting that I would need it.

Having done so........if you're one of those people who carry the tow hooks in your boot, planning to bolt them on while you're stuck in a circuit gravel trap (or even parked on the grass) or in the ditch up to your a*** in nettles - dream on.

Only put one on. A bridle is dangerous (to the car) and impractical (see AA winch below). The offside (on rhd cars) is easiest to access the bolts. Richard (F) has the nearside one only, but told me that he has only two bolts because the third is a b****. I can tell you - this is a bad idea.

The 5 may be relatively easy to push, but the jerk forces if you let the rope go slack are huge. (It's inevitable, however hard you try to keep it taut - the brakes and steering are very dead and heavy with no engine) We broke the rope at one point. So I reckon you need all three bolts. Make an access hole in the undertray if necessary.

When the car is being towed up the very steep ramp of an AA recovery vehicle by a hook on the end of a steel cable, the tow hook which once looked nice and chunky in your hand suddenly looks woefully inadequate. It moves - I was watching closely until the AA man removed me from the scene - said he'd seen the video of what happens when the cable breaks...

Also the front of the car ends up very close to the winch which is mounted on the bed of the truck at the front, so forget towing by the engine, etc. I suppose you could get towed on backwards by the rear hooks if you have them. (Or at least by one of them) Clive suggested to me that it would be possible to tow by the engine lift bracket.

Sounds feasible - but forget it. -
a) They're not substantial enough -
b) you'd need the bonnet partly open -
c) you risk damage to the nose, headlights and engine/ancillaries (on corners the rope goes way out to the side)

There's nothing like experience in this area! (9/01)

Anyone have any ideas where I can get a towbar for my 99V reg 1.8i? I've tried a couple of independent towbar installers and also Mazda dealers. But no joy. (5/00)
There has been a lot of correspondence on Miata sites on this issue. I think the general view is that the MX-5 has never been designed for towing and hence no-one is prepared to fit a tow hook. Never the less, I can remember some US Miata freaks having reported that they have welded towing kit to their cars. I've presently got a redundant trailer, but I have no intention of attaching it to my Mk 2 ! (5/00)

I realise that the idea of towing with an MX-5 may seem almost blasphemous to some but there are practical issues involved. One of my other passions is radio-controlled model aircraft and helicopters so I'd like to be able to tow a small (5' x 3') 2 wheel trailer occasionally to get to the airfield when I can't borrow the wife's MPV.

One towbar fitter told me that they have the necessary ironwork for a '98 car but not for a '99. If anyone has any specific information I'd appreciate hearing it. (5/00)

Believe there are two companies over there that do installations suitable for the MK2, DaLan and DrawTite (U-Haul). I thought you can get them from www.mmmiata.com, but only think I can find there is a bike rack and a golf rack in the body section of ordering. (5/00)
That's over there but I'm over here! :--) (5/00)
However that MAY be your only course of action as I don't recall many comments on UK suppliers of towing equipment for the 5. Importing shouldn't be much of a problem at all, its just a weight issue that may make it price prohibitive. (5/00)
Not the same as my De'lan hitch, but a source for a hitch never-the-less. http://www.seriousauto.com/hitch.htm (5/00)

I got mine from a company near Belfast, in Northern Ireland. It cost something like 80 quid at the time (without wiring and actual tow-ball, as I just wanted the bar itself for my bike rack) - if you're interested, ask them if they'll send it via mail. I like it, and it is fairly unobtrusive. Of course, you can buy other ones that are *completely* hidden, but they are hard to find.

As far as I can see, they all bolt onto the same boltholes used by the tie-down hooks. Have a look at the following pics of mine: http://www.crosswinds.net/dublin/~franksm/mx5/13.jpg (towbar with bike-rack attachment) http://www.crosswinds.net/dublin/~franksm/mx5/20.jpg (bike fitted)

There are other relevant pics in that MX5 directory.

Contact details for the manufacturer:
David Murphy Ltd,
182 Belfast Road,
Carryduff,
Northern Ireland.

Tel. (01232) 812439 (5/00)

Remember that there are now new regulations for towbars, and you can only use one which is specifically designed for your vehicle and approved. Imported ones won't be.

It only applies to vehicles first registered after sometime last year (1/1/99?).

I don't know if it applies to bike racks mounted on a towbar. I guess the MX5 list isn't the best place to find out about towing regulations - most of us not being caravanners ;-) - the full info must be somewhere though! (5/00)

To add to that, the mk2 is not type approved in europe for any kind of hitch, so you will certainly be breaking the law if you fit one. (5/00)
Can I ask how you know that? And also, is it possible to get something like SVA for it if you get one fitted? (5/00)

I found the following on the Central Office of Information site http://213.38.88.195/coi/coipress.nsf

DEPARTMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT, TRANSPORT AND THE REGIONS

PRESS NOTICE: 424/TRANSPORT 2 June 1998

PROPOSALS INTRODUCED FOR TOWING BRACKETS ON CARS TO COMPLY WITH EC LEGISLATION

Proposed regulations making it mandatory for towing brackets to comply with EC Directive 94/20 by 1 August 1998 were laid in Parliament today.

The introduction of this legislation is essential for the UK to meet its obligations under the European Whole Vehicle Type Approval. This became compulsory for M1 category vehicles (passenger vehicles with up to eight seats plus the driver) on 1 January 1998.

The implementation date for the Mechanical Couplings Directive was decided following a wide consultation of the towing bracket manufacturing industry.

Any mechanical coupling fitted to a motor vehicle, subject to European Whole Vehicle Type Approval, which is first used on or after 1 August 1998 must be type approved and marked as such, in accordance with the terms of Directive 94/20/EC.

NOTES FOR EDITORS

1. The system of harmonised requirements for passenger cars throughout the European Community is referred to as European Whole Vehicle Type Approval (EWVTA) for which there is a framework Directive 70/156/EEC, amended by 92/53/EEC. Under EWVTA, there are 48 separate Directives covering most vehicle systems and components. EC/94/20 is the Directive containing the technical measures for towing attachments.

2. The technical standards EC/94 /20 will apply both to towing brackets fitted as original equipment and to those fitted subsequently. The choice of the implementation date of 1 August 1998 coincides with the introduction of the "S" registration plate for new vehicles, aiding recognition of towing brackets that must comply with the new standards.

It still doesn't answer yor SVA question, but there is lots of information and contact details for SVA at http://www.roads.detr.gov.uk/vehicle/sva/sva2/ (5/00)

OK, I'm now an MX-5 towbar expert.

The only company I've found that do a type approved bar for MkII's is Brink. They do a removable one which is nice, but at a price! Around £240. See http://www.brink-towbars.co.uk/New%20Pages/brinkmatic.pg.html

Watling Engineering of St.Albans will fit one for £360 complete. T T Towing of Letchworth, Herts will do it for £290. (5/00)

Ages ago someone was looking for a tow bar for their Mk2. I have just come across www.towbarsdirect.co.uk who list a European type approved version for the Mk2. Not cheap at £220, but it's detachable. They also do the same for the Mk1 without the approval and a cheaper (£90) fixed bar for the Mk1. Not quite sure how it can be approved if the car itself is stated as not designed for towing, but that's what it indicates. (4/01)