| I have finally had my supercharger delivered and installed only 6 months after I ordered it. The installation has been carried out by my local friendly performance car garage. They haven't installed a supercharger before, but have done various other after-market add-ons such as turbos. So I thought they'd likely do a better job than me, plus they have the time and facilities that I lack. The basic installation is complete, although the J&S knock sensor has still to be fitted. The car apparently runs OK, but tries to cut out at high revs. Timing is still at the factory setting of 8 degrees BTDC. The likelihood is that there is a mistake in the installation, possibly electrical, and the chap who is installing it hasn't got around to checking it yet. In the hope of perhaps saving him a bit of time, is there anyone out there who can make any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I can't provide any more details right now as I haven't witnessed the problem personally, and have only had a brief chat with the mechanic. However, if anyone has any questions that they reckon I should put to him that might shed some light on the source of the problem, then I'd be very pleased to receive them. (11/99) |
| I'll see how much spare silicone tube I have at home. This tube connects the cross over pipe to the s/c manifold and the dummy throttle body. Much better than rubber. See also Supercharger squeak (11/99) |
| There's 2 reports on Superchargers by Ian Oliver and Mike Bonham including installation notes and photos at: http://www.nemx5.free-online.co.uk/nemx5/ (12/99) |
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The garage fitting my supercharger is having some problems
and if anyone out there has any suggestions I would be very very
grateful. My car is a 1995 UK spec 1.8i No PAS/ABS?Aircon The problems are 1) Only getting 5psi not 6psi These happen with or without the knock sensor connected. (12/99) |
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3) the idle speed is erratic What I know about fitting a supercharger can be written on a couple of pages of STHT (Winter 1999, pages 22 and 23 ;)). It says that there is a breather/vacuum pipe coming from the cam cover by the oil filer cap. Apparently this should have a restrictor in it. Some cars have one fitted and some don't. (I seem to remember somebody saying all 1.8's don't, all 1.6's do). So I guess you don't have the restrictor. You could try squeezing this pipe to see if it helps. If it does, then they are 58 pence each (so says STHT). 1) Only getting 5psi not 6psi As to the other three problems, I think if you find the leak you will fix them all. Does putting washing up liquid on all the joints help? Can you see any bubbles? (12/99) |
| Well thanks, the idling problem has been fixed but i'm still down on power (only 120 BHP at the wheels), apparently the car is running lean on fuel (it was explained to me as normally the car runs at 70% fuel to the cylinders, when the sensors spot the extra air they should take it up to 100% which isn't happening!) So help!!!! Any suggestions gratefully accepted (12/99) |
| I have a MK2 1.8iS. Now I am thinking of putting a Serbring Supercharger in it. The MOSS catalogue just came through the door , and it says that it will fit all cars except RHD with ABS which mine has! Is this true and if you can fit it how much rearranging to you have to do in the engine bay (9/00) |
| They are in the UK as well. Try www.z-engineering-uk.com I can't really see their main site www.z-engineering.com and I can't find any contact details to ask for EU prices and especially for MK2 1.6 availability. (9/00) |
| See http://www.nemx5.free-online.co.uk/nemx5/mods/superchargers/ian.html for how I fitted the s/c to my RHD ABS car. If you go to Gaydon you'll be able to see it there. It looks bodgy, and I ought to get a new bit welded and sort it out a bit, but I haven't got around to it! Nearly one year on it's working fine (fingers crossed!) (9/00) |
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Keep an eye on the miataforum.com list; someone there is taking the plunge and ordering a Z-engineering centrifugal supercharger for their Mk2: http://www.miataforum.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002328.html Pretty pricey in the US, but they're a Swiss company, so might be a bit cheaper. Some people have ragged this supercharger, but I remain open minded until someone gives it a try. (9/00) |
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Getting ever close to fitting a supercharger soon and I've been checking all possible sources of info. Anyway, the most common course of action seems to be fitting a JR supercharger and going for some king timing retard, be it fixed or variable. Some have had some problems with cooling and required charge coolers etc, some haven't. Some have had some problems with the mixture running lean/rich and required auxilliary fuel regulators/fifth injectors etc. Again, others have had no problems. I have been speaking to BBR (Brodie Brittain Racing) today ('old' MX-5 BBR Turbo). They no longer fit turbos but deal instead in superchargers. Their solution is to fit the SC and also a modified version of their Interceptor ECU. Apparently this does away with the need for specific knock sensors (MSD etc) by adjusting timing, fuel etc for discrete points accross the rev range. Alos, no need for auxilliary fuel regulators or additonal injectors. My question... Has anyone gone this route? I can see how this sorts out timing/knock problems but how does it address the intake temperature/cooling issue? I guess this path is similiar to those in the States who use the Link ECU with their SC/Turbo systems? Their solution is expensive - it's over three grand plus VAT fitted but... In a recent OC magazine article, an article on supercharging suggested to budget for additional things as sometimes it wasn't a straightforward install. Is it fair to say that the additonal work/gizmos (MSD units, fifth injectors, coolers,fitting) bring the price up to a similiar level? I would want it to be fitted as opposed to fitting it myself so the fitting cost has to be included. I would be very grateful to hear people's views...? BTW, they quote 175 bhp for 'stock' install - obviously more with decent exhaust and headers... Perhaps 185 with a JR exhaust and ceramic header? (3/01) |
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On a MK1, with no ABS and if you're happy with the standard 6psi the install is a doddle. But if you don't have power steering (unsure about Berkley) my advice would be not to bother as the brackets have caused some people serious problems. Unless you want more power you don't need to worry about charge cooling, extra injectors, or any of those issues. But with a 1.8 the header heat shield needs removing, and you might want to fit something in its place to keep the supercharger cooler. But you do need to get either the MSD or the reprogrammed J&S. Or put up with retard for a while and wait for a spiffy new box Dick Bipes is working on. I'd get an MSD and decide where to go later. But I'd also get an air/fuel gauge and ensure you never see lean conditions. I'd also do the job yourself. It really is very easy and doesn't need much in the way of skill or tools. (3/01) |
| While on this topic (as I've been playing round with car testing software (with Westfields programmed in to it), I've seen and hear around that adding a SC will take a 1.6 to ~ 170-180 BHP (the latter with a sports cat back), but does anyone actually know how mush torque is produced as peek as a result ? (3/01) |
| Dunno about torque curves but a rule of thumb is that each PSI of boost will give about 7 more hp. So a sebring setup with 6psi will give about 42 more hp meaning the figures BBR quote may be a little high. I think that Alex should talk to Val at Scimitar first before sending his car plus 3 grand odd to BBR as the HKS kit there has all the management and power BBR are quoting for a grand less - fitted. Val speaks very highly of the kit and I've seen lots of HKS products and they are all as good as you can buy. Val has dyno'd the HKS kit and can give real world power increases instead of sales pitch. Lastly, a Turbo will be easier to upgrade than an SC when the need for speed rears it's head again in 6 months time. (3/01) |
| Mine kicks out about 170 torque and the last time I had it tested 177hp, though I've changed loads around since then and have yet to see the gains, if any... (3/01) |
| I've just fitted a JR supercharger to my japanese Mk 1, 1.6 (the Torque is well impressive) I've ordered a JR timing box and full JR Manifold and exhaust system. Then, I was looking at putting the gig boost kit onto the blower. However, I understand that it will run even better if I can get cold air into the blower. Does anyone know of either an intercooler or a cold air induction kit available that will fit on with a blower? (5/01) |
| Are you wanting colder air in, or colder air out. If you want colder air out, then both Pace Engineering (www.paceproducts.co.uk) and Jackson Racing (www.mossmotors.com) do water to air intercoolers. I have the Pace unit, and it certainly decreases intake temps. (5/01) |
| I need cold air in to start with! I've considered putting some air intakes in place of the side lights, but was wondering what other options were available. (5/01) |
| I have the TSI's, and they do make a small difference. (5/01) |
| I don't think the normal air to air intercoolers work very well with SC's. You need a water to air cooler like the Pace charge cooler. (5/01) |
| Definitely..........call Wayne Claydon at Pace Products - 01284 850960. He can supply a superb ChargeCooler - not sure that it wits with Air Con though - if you have AC (but might be worth a try). (5/01) |
| All the cold air you can get will help but............side light and head light air intakes, as far as I know, do not help aas much as a chargecooler. I have the Garage Vary type 3 head lamp lid with louvers (LHS only). It's about 100 unpainted. (5/01) |
| So lets get this right: You'd recommend getting in touch with Pace for a charge cooler (my 5 has got AC) and fitting a louvered head lamp lid? When you say Left hand side - Is that Passenger side (on RHD)? A charge cooler - Forgive my ignorance but can you explain how it works and what benefits I can expect. (5/01) |
| Another query - At 4,000 rpm the engines starting to run a lean and starts pinking. How can I alter the mixture? (5/01) |
| The Pace chargecooler has a radiator to chill the coolant. This fits in front of the engine cooling rad. I think that if you have AC youıll already have a rad in front of the engine cooling rad not sure if you should put 2 pre-rads in place. (5/01) |
| Sound like itıs running lean. (5/01) |
| I'm working with a friend on supercharging his car. He's got the standard Moss supplied Sebring kit, with a high pressure fuel pump etc. It's a 92 1.6 (UK car) It runs nicely, and has no driveability vices (pushing about 7.5 psi). However, it is clear that it goes very weak at wide throttle openings, irrespective of the actual boost or revs. It doesn't pink, 'cos he's got the MSD Boost timer which retards it well enough. We're coming to the conclusion that a 5th injector might be the answer. Q's Will it work? Where exactly does it fit? How do you control it? Any details on specs, suppliers, etc? (5/01) |
| Shouldn't be necessary on the standard boost kit. If he's got the 1.6 he will have the AFPR, try just tweaking the base fuel pressure up a bit. That should solve it. Which pump does he have? How do you know he's getting tip-in lean - does he have A/F ration meter, or it it from driveability? Repeat, don't go spending money on the fifth injector, it should be solveable without. (5/01) |
| Will it work? Should do Where exactly does it fit? Into the DTB How do you control it? With a mapped ECU from ERL (Aquamist) Any details on specs, suppliers, etc? don't know how you'll do the mapping though - Dave Power at Power Engineering does though Ever thought about larger injectors and the link ECU instead?? (5/01) |
| Fuel pressure is already "tweaked up a bit", but we haven't got a FP gauge - could probably rig one - what should we be aiming for? The pump is the Hi-Flow one that Moss do (989-205 in the new catalogue) Mixture readings are from AF ratio meter - shows acceptably rich (0.8 volt) up to about 2/3 throttle, then it dies away very rapidly as you open the throttle further to too lean to record (ie <0.1 volt from the lambda sensor). Happens regardless of revs or boost at the time - purely based on throttle opening. The car feels OK, and it does keep on accelerating - but it must be running well on the lean side of stoichiometric ???? Don't want to spend Link money (or much, come to that :-) ) (5/01) |
| OK, some of the"high flow" pumps aren't worth a bean. They simply can't provide enough fuel pressure under boost (and it's pressure you need, not flow). Although you say it goes lean regardless revs or boost?....strange - throttle opening doesn't really mean a lot on a 1.6. Normally Sebrings will either run lean at tip-in i.e. whack the throttle open, or at high boost, high revs when the engine needs most fuel. It may be worth trying with the stock pump back in. How old's the fuel filter? You really need to jerry rig a fuel pressure gauge in - even if it's just taped to the outside of the windscreen for testing purposes. You should see 75-80 psi inder boost. Base fuel pressure needs to be set at 50ish (sometimes 52-54 is necessary). If none of these things still cures it, buy a Pierburg pump. It will definitely cure it (trust me, I ran it on my car and it could push golf balls through a garden hose). Much cheaper and easier than a fifth injector setup (5/01) |