| Not a good start to the year when my roof began
to peel off !! Any suggestions on the best adhesive to stick the
fabric loop back onto the bars ?? (1/00) |
| I had the same problem and used a "soft plastic glue" from B&Q
(sold in small tubes similar to superglue). Not sure of the make
offhand...Loctite I think. I applied it about 4 weeks ago and holding
firm so far (1/00) |
| Bostik 3206, sticks like that brown stuff to a blanket. ;-) Bit
difficult to find though. (1/00) |
| Bostic 3206 , priced £9.30 fo 1L, available RS (01536 201201),
try rswww.com for on-line catalogue.
Next day delivery normally. It's the muts nuts for sticking plastics.
(1/00) |
| The same is happening to me unfortunately. I notice at speed the
roof will get lifted off the bars a little by the lower pressure.
This occurs at 75mph+. There is a little more noise created by turbulance
as a result. Is it a cause for concern? (1/00) |
| Some w*&^%r last night slashed the side of my roof outside
work. It is a 3 or 4 inch slash Does anyone know of somewhere I
can get this repaired?? How much am I looking at???? (3/00) |
|
I have seen a roof that was patched, presumably due to a similar
slashing incident. Whilst the patch was neat, it was also immediately
noticeable, especially due to the difference in colour between
the patch and the roof. (No the patch was not tartan or anything
- just blacker than the slightly fading roof!)
Obviously the ideal thing is to replace the roof but if budget
rules that out you could have it patched and see if you can live
with it. On the other hand, if you decide to replace the roof
after all you may be able to get a second hand Mk1 roof at a very
reasonable price or, if you have a Mk1, take the opportunity to
fit a Mk2 roof so you get a glass rear window. (3/00)
|
|
There is a mazda repair kit for roof tears
Repair Sheet - NC10 R1 211
Adhesive - K180 W0 313
Essentially cut the rip out, cut a square of patch to fit the
new hole. Cut bigger pice as backing. Then glue all together as
a sort of 1/2 sandwich. If the tear is clean and exact joint can
be made when roof NOT under tension then can just use the backing
sheet underneath the provide the structure to hold the tear together
(5/01)
|
| Anyone have any knowledge on Mark1 soft tops? In particular
on the wire that runs overhead (through a sleeve in the roof) spring
loaded at each end, that connects down onto the car body on both
sides? I found it slack not so long ago, and like a fool pulled
it a little to find that it had separated, both ends being slack.
What does the wire do, is it important, and how would I go around
fixing it? (5/01) |
| Its rivetted to the front part of the frame, passes through the
hood sides to a spring. Basically seems to keep the tension on the
sides of the hood. You should be able to replace it in situ. You
need to undo all the seals on the front of the hood, and the front
retainer bar, and peel back the roof a bit to drill out the forward
rivet. The wire itself is fairly easily available; you just need
some way of making an eyelet for the rivet. Stick it to a bit of
straightened coat hanger wire to feed it through. There should be
an eyelet on the other end that hooks into the spring. I know someone
used heavy duty nylon fishing line, and that seems to work fine.
(5/01) |
| The cable on my mark 1 roof was broken - discovered after a winter
of water getting into the car and soaking the driver's seat. A company
called "Car Interiors" (Gary the Hood) of Hayes, Middx, 020 8561
4709 came and replaced it, and I have had no leaks since!!! Obviously
if you don't live in South East England then Gary is no good to
you, but there must be a similar sort of company near you - your
Mazda garage should know of one. (5/01) |
|
I have noticed that since the summer, and my top going up
and down more frequently, that the rubber seal which locates along
the top/back edge of the drivers window has come adrift from the
metal hinge. First attempts to relocate the rubber into the groove
have proved less than successful, and when the top is raised it
pulls free again. (I think it may have been trapped for sometime
before I noticed and so has taken on a twisted form) The rubber
is doubling back on itself and sticking to the reamins of the
adhesive use on the foam lining.
This adhesive doesn't have enough stick to hold the foam,
but is doing a damn good job at sticking the rubber! Is this covered
under warranty?
Do I need to remove the part completely, stretch it out and
reattach? Or do I just attack it with some 'araldite' or similar
and stick it back. Or should I just give the car away to a passing
tramp and get another cos it's obviously defect!! :-)
I am concered that when the top is up, it doesn't provide
the full wet proof seal it should and I am worried about water
getting in and causing more problems. (6/01)
|
| STOP - if the car is under warranty, let the dealer try to fix
it first. If you were to mess it up, you couldn't expect them to
be interested then. (6/01) |
| Whow!! I hadn't started!! :-) Ok, I'll run it past the dealer
sometime, I wasn't sure if it would come under warranty or whether
it was wear and tear. (6/01) |
| Mine have been replaced twice under warranty, the second time
appear to be a modified type without the bit that peels off. (6/01) |
| |