| I can rarely drop the roof whilst inside the car. Whenever I've tried, it stops about half way - gravity isn't strong enough to overcome the stiffness of the construction. Then I look stupid jumping out the car with roof at "half mast" to fix it properly. (1/00) |
| I think this is a known problem with older MK2's. It has something to do with a spring that isn't stiff enough to pull one of the metal bars forward so the glass window has enough place to drop down. You can still open the top without having to get out of the car if you help that metal bar (the one immediately in front of the window) a bit while opening the roof. Allegedly, this should be fixed with the newer cars. (1/00) |
| My R - 1998 MK2 seems to have off days - Usually great unclip and drop but then others it just stops, always at the worst time, soooo uncool ;-( If a 'known' problem is there a 'known' solution and if so what is it and what to ask the dealer for as a 'job' so don't get fobbed off with the excuses! (1/00) |
| I noticed that sometimes my roof won't budge past about 6" higher than where it should be when folded - I traced this to one of the metal bars in the canopy ( I don't know if this is the same one referred to below, but the one I'm referring to doesn't seem to be sprung at all). When you fold the roof back the bar I'm talking about should slide toward the one immediately above the glass window, to within about an inch. On the times when the roof doesn't fold properly, I've found that this bar stops about 4 inches short of one above the window. A prod with the finger causes it to continue its slide and hey presto the roof collapses properly. I'm not sure where the 'newer' cars line is drawn, as mine's a 99 T registered in April. I just remember now that when I undo the catches I just gently push the offending bar backwards slightly in prep for it's movemnet backwards. This seems to do the trick, the top always pops right the way down. Unfortunatley I have to get out to bring it up again - that's a downside of the Fx windbreak. (1/00) |
| That's the situation with my roof. I always ''help'' the metal bar and it was the dealers instruction when I bought the car. And yes it is one of the very first MK2, came over June 98, I bought August 98. (1/00) |
| I'm new to all this (picking up a blue 90 eunos on Thursday) Can someone tell me if I'm supposed to unzip the rear window when I put the hood down, or just fold it? (4/00) |
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I've not long had mine either but when I went for a test drive,
the advice I was given was: Raising the roof is the exact opposite. (4/00) |
| YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! UNZIP IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (4/00) |
| Always unzip the window, my other half (better half?) made the mistake of not unzipping mine one time resulting in a cracked back screen, ok so I made him pay in various ways but it was a pain having to fork out to get a new one fitted ! (4/00) |
| I have recently exchanged my 1997 MX5 model for a 1999 MX5 ( new shape ). Unlike my old model I have been experiencing problems when locking the roof. My local dealers have explained that I need to open both passenger and driver doors to enable the windows to close without catching on the rubber seals around the window and roof. I have since developed a leak on the driver side. Do I have a faulty hood or does anyone else have to do this too? (5/00) |
| Well I open and close my roof very regular and no way do I have the doors open to do it! I have noticed it sometimes fits better if I open and shut the doors afterwards but it sounds as if you MAY have a leaking seal. I had one on drivers side that was replaced uder warranty. Anyway how are you meant to open the doors both sides all the time- don't see that in any manual! (5/00) |
| Just lower both windows a couple of inches while lowering or raising the roof, it stops the seals fouling the edge of the glass. (5/00) |
| I think the manual says, at least I was told by the dealer first day I bought the car, to lower the windows when putting the roof up not down. This is easy to understand why rubber seals can get caught at the edge of the windows. Just a couple of inches will do. BTW all MK2s that I know off have a problem with the left hand side of the roof (driver's side for us). I always lock the right side first and then the one. If I don't left will stay a bit open. I did every adjustment possible and so did the guy at Mazda service. There is no cure, as mine is one of the very first (June 1998) and most early roofs had their share of probs. (5/00) |
| Funny how that one line in the manual for both lowering and raising the roof passed me by! Not even mentioned to me when I got the car. Somehow smells of a design issue that they want to cover by instructions. Cynically yours, and have to use the leccy windows more then! (5/00) |
| I always open and then close both doors after closing the roof (with the windows up as well). This ensures the rubbers are not squashed and the roof leak proof. (5/00) |
| I have had a Mk2 for 18 months. I always wind the windows down before putting up the hood, but never open the doors for this. No trouble - so far! (5/00) |
| What's the min outside air temp that it is safe to fold the hood down, without fear of cracking ?? (1/01) |
| The manual says dont lower the hood below 5 degrees, it is the window that is the risk. On the 1.8 with the bracebar you cannot put the window flat without bending it a bit. (1/01) |
| 45F - about 7C? (according to the manual, if I remember correctly). (1/01) |
| So, how does the glass window do it? Does it mean that the vinyl at the bottom of the window bends more, or is the glass window slightly narrower? (1/01) |