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1) Front plate: Has anyone had experience of fitting the plastic
reg holder as supplied by Moss, similar to the original Mazda
one? I need instructions on how to fit it. I assume I need long
bolts and nuts? How do you get behind the bumper to tighted the
nuts? How do you drill the bumper without cracking it? etc etc.
(Is there any doublesided strong enough for this?)
2) Rear plate, got my local Halfords to make me a bike plate
with the smaller letters (I have a Eunos Roadster) but the actual
plate is too narrow and it makes the back look poo. Does anyone
know where I can get a full size (or at least the size of the
area it is going to go) plate but with bike size letters. (2/00)
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Front plate - I have the holder, its just screwed into the bumper
- no nuts and bolts req'd
Rear Plate - Try a bike shop, e.g. motorcycle city or similiar,
they should be able to do it (2/00)
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| The standard plate available locally is 6 1/2" x 13" - too narrow
by about an inch. I made a plate to fit (approx 7" x 14") from a
sheet of lexan (left over from my windblocker), stuck on two pieces
cut from rear stick on plates (ie yellow) and used proper sized
letters. (2/00) |
| The Mazda one uses plastic inserts to hold captive the supplied
plastic screws (2/00) |
| Rear plate: it's illegally spaced as well (spaces between letters
and edges and between the rows. As I have said here before - it
is impossible to put a fully legal rear number plate on a Roadster
without body mods (eg fitting a UK style rear panel). The unanswered
question at present is: Which part of the regs is it acceptable
to break? Or do our cars all have to go back to Japan? (2/00) |
| I bought one of these number plate holders from Moss about a month
ago and got the Mazda dealer to fit and he done it free of charge
:). But I had to redo it as one side was coming out. When I took
the screws out it seems they use a raw plug type thing that seats
in the hole of the bumper. I found that one of these did not fit
very well so I put some glue round the raw plug and popped it back
into the hole and all okay now. I did not drill the holes but it
can't be no worse then drilling holes in tiles. If you use a hand
drill and go slow it should be okay. Unless anybody else got any
other ways of drilling the hole. (2/00) |
| I had no problems drilling the bumper....hardest bit was starting
it (did I drill into the right place?.... I fitted the number plate
holder because I was sick of polishing out black scuff marks left
by lazy van drivers (its left parked in the street all day). Provides
a little protection. (2/00) |
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When I bought my car, half way home the front number plate holder
nearly fell off. It looked like it had had a few too many close
encounters - it was split as well as hanging off.
Next day, got a new one from Mazda (about 15quid I think). Took
the old one off and put the new one on. Seems as though I had
the same problem as it was too loose in one of the holes. With
all the "close encounters" one of the holes had become enlarged.
Didn't think of using glue did I?
Ended up drilling 2 new holes 1/2 an inch above the old ones.
No problem at all! No special tools/technique required - just
make sure your drill bit is sharp I suppose. Solved the problem
of where the paint had rubbed off at the top where the old one
had been too. (2/00)
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| Interesting - though I'm not sure from where your conclusion derives.
However I checked my motorbike on receiving this and found that
that (legal) numberplate did not have the "BS AU 145a" designation
so maybe you're right. I then checked the Mazda's original 10 year
old plates (age known since they show the selling garage's name)
and those clearly have the "BS AU 145a" designation in black on
white. So, does anyone know the regulations on this aspect? (2/00) |
| A Roadster rear number plate can never have a BS AU 145a mark.
IMHO :-( (2/00) |
| Rear plates: http://home.clara.net/norden/plates.html
(2/00) |
| The number plate for which I received a ticket had BSAU145a marked
on it. Actually, that was the only respect in which it was legal.
The numbers were 2 1/2" and the space in the middle (between rows)
was too small. The plate was supplied by a local accessory shop
- it's a Jepsons product and is what is supplied as standard to
the many dealers around here (North Cheshire) who sell japanese
sports cars imported used. The BSAU145a I think applies to the plates
reflective qualities, and all plates must carry the mark, along
with the makers identification (2/00) |
| Huh. Front plate carries this. Rear plate has no marks; sawn off
to get it to fit... But then no one cares about plates over here
in N.Ireland (even Roadsters with silver-on-black plates get away
with it for a year...). (2/00) |
| Has anyone fitted a rear plate on a Eunos exactly like on the
front, i.e. on a moulding which screws onto the bumper? This would
surely be legal with the only disadvantage being that the square
number plate location in the bodywork would be empty. (2/00) |
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You'd have to do something about illuminating it - by the time
you'd sorted that and left the empty space on the rear panel,
it'ld probably look like a dog's breakfast methinks :-(
Honestly rear plates on a Eunos are *no problem*, just get 'em
custom made (2/00)
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| The problem is that it wouldn't be illuminated which it has to
be to comply with legislation. However I suppose you could get a
surround with built in lighting too - the sort that might go on
trailers etc - and use that. It might be rather vulnerable though.
If you're looking at this sort of thing, wouldn't it be safer to
mount it over the old aperture? - would look wrong though admittedly!
What you really need is a back illuminated job like the TVR's have
- looks very expensive since presumably the plates have to be special
to allow translucency but also be reflective. Or a proper back panel
of course... (2/00) |
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Rear plate:
I have had the very same problem with my plate. Mine has a motorbike
plate on and you can see two holes behind, on either side of it,
it looks crap. I am currently having a new plate made by a local
sign making company. If you look through the Yellow Pages for
sign makers that make reg plates then go along and get them to
measure the space ( I think if you want it to fill that area completely
it measures about 15 X 7.5 inches. They will also have a computer
programme that can make the letters as large as will fit. These
are too small to be proper ones, yet much bigger than bike ones,
IE still illegal but less illegal than bike size! (2/00)
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| Find a signmaker who makes custom car no. plates (the kind boy
racers love). Tell him you want normal letters / numbers 'best fit'
on his computer graphics programme to the size of the rear plate
space. You'll get a plate that looks legal and won't attract the
unwanted attention of bizzies or MOT men. (2/00) |
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Rear plate:
Jepsons Signs did mine and it has chrome round the edge, looks
lovely. I think they would probably mail order, phone number :
0181 521 6239 (2/00)
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| Use a Rolls Royce or Jaguar square one .. make a cardboard template
of what does fit .. and cut the offending 12mm off .. then you can
use legal numbers with illegal vertical spacing .. as good as it
gets.. (5/00) |
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Find a 'custom number plate' or general signmaker (yellow pages)
.... measure your space - or let him ... ask him to do standard
letters/numbers but sized 'best fit' on his computer graphics
program (which is how he makes all his custom plates) .... shouldn't
cost much and the result will look legal enough to prevent anyone
making a fuss .....
While you're at it have him make a stick on front plate to make
your Roadster look like a *Racer* :-) (5/00)
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I'm off on my hols to France in September. I didn't fancy
sticking a big 'GB' on my paintwork so I ordered some new plates
with the GB inside the EU ring of stars. Fitting instructions
suggest removing the old plates and using them as a mask for drilling
hols in the new plates. Well and good for the front, but the back
does not have any visible screws !!! Looked behind the plate in
the boot, but nothing obvious there either - are they glued on
?
2 questions which I hope someone can answer:
1) How does the rear plate on a Mk1 1.8 stay on the car ?
2) How can I remove it ? (I thought of just sticking the new plate
over the old, but the new plate is not as big.) (7/00)
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| Mine were fixed with double sided sticky pads (which I think I
have seen at Halfords by their plate maker). I only found out when
my wife came home with the front one inside the car after it had
dropped off! The front is now held on with screws and the back still
has sticky pads and two little tabs at the bottom that it lodges
behind. Try a gentle wobble? (7/00) |
| Double sided tape was used by some dealers... Not sure how to
get it off .. heat helps.. and shearing .. you need an L shaped
knife Would doubt it would break the rear panel if you pulled too
hard .. but try to peel not pull. (7/00) |
| Try the hair dryer routine. Direct the air between the number
plate and bodywork whilst pulling the corner gently - it will work
but take your time. (7/00) |
| Mine was also stuck on with double sided spongey tape......rip
off the plate.....get blisters on your fingers rubbing the tape
off, break a few nails as well. Take new plate and stick on sticky
pads...then we used some black gunky stuff which I was told is used
around the outside of windows to make them stick. I reckon the plate
is pretty secure now. (7/00) |
| My front and back plates were held on with screws under little
plastic caps. These came off readily. However, underneath I found
the previous owner had once displayed a private plate. They had
used some kind of glue to fix the plate. I found some lighter fuel
and cotton wool and managed to remove the mess. I had my new plates
made up but forgot to mark on where the screws would drill through.
This left me with either drilling a hole half through a letter and
half through a space, or using outdoor sticky fixers. In the end
I used six thumbnail sized sticky fixers. My plates haven't fallen
off yet. (7/00) |
| http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/regmarks/reg_marks_newrules.htm
gives the new dimensions to be complied with - all you Eunos Roadster
owners can now do the sums and see if the new font can make you
"legal" (3/01) |
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Silly question perhaps but the front number plate on my Mk2
has fallen off on one side - the hole for the self-tapper has
become enlarged. Larger self-tappers are too long and I suspect
would actually puncture the bodywork.
Can anyone tell me what happens if I unscrew the screws behind
the number plate - does this remove the entire plastic assembly
from the bodywork or just a faceplate? Is it easy to put back?
Do nuts drop inside the engine bay never to be seen again?
Because the number plate mounting is curved and exerts pressure,
a couple of self-tapping screws seems a pretty dodgy way of retaining
the plate - it just pulls itself away. Any better permanent ideas?
I thought of using those white plastic bolts, the other way round
with the head 'inside' the plastic box? (4/01)
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| On my mark one the two screw are not real screw, they are fixings.
If you unscrew them (not always easy, on my car) then the mounting
plate will just pull away. (4/01) |
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Q: Can anyone tell me what happens if I unscrew the screws
behind the number plate - does this remove the entire plastic
assembly from the bodywork
A: Yes
Q: Is it easy to put back?
A: Yes, but it would be wise to buy a new pair of the plastic
'plugs' into which the plastic screws are fitted. Don't honestly
know if they are readily available.
Q: Do nuts drop inside the engine bay never to be seen
again?
A: No. There are no nuts - just 'plastic rawlplugs' if you know
what I mean :-)
Q: Because the number plate mounting is curved and exerts
pressure, a couple of self-tapping screws seems a pretty dodgy
way of retaining the plate - it just pulls itself away. Any better
permanent ideas? I thought of using those white plastic bolts,
the other way round with the head 'inside' the plastic box?
A: This may work as the mount has hollow sections at the back.
The self-tappers my supplying dealer used were l-o-n-g and as
a result do screw into the bumper! No problem, providing you are
going to keep the plate mount fitted to the bumper. (4/01)
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| Use sticky pads. Halfords do them in a packet to suit one plate.
Must admit I used two sets per plate just in case. (4/01) |
| My number plate was stuck to the black box using those double
sided pads. I removed these and found two plastic screws holding
the box to the bodywork. These unscrewed and just lifted off with
the box leaving 2 delightful drilled holes in my beautiful plastic
nose (are Mazda UK stupid?). I replaced the box with a stick on
plate from Donutz, then replaced that with another one from Charlie
Browns after I screwed the original one up in a temper!! It REALLY
is a tricky and painstaking job to get it wrinkle free. I placed
it low enough to cover the drilled holes in the bumper, and it's
almost vertical (officer). The result is a much better looking front
end. Have a look at the TyneTees web site gallery, and you'll see
it www.tyneteesmx5.co.uk under Graeme & Tracy. It saves clarting
around with sharp points near to your paint. (4/01) |
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Sounds like a job for Lateral Thinking! two solutions, basically
the same.
1. pop down to Halfords and go to their "little bits and bobs
in blister packs" rack. They normally have a range of these packs,
with screws, lucars, washers etc. well, what you need is a pack
of the small white plastic expanding plugs, bit like anorexic
rawlplugs. You slip these into your holes, line up your plate
holder in this case, then use self tappers again which expand
the plug into the hole giving a very good, firm fixing.
2. Other wise, just use rawlplugs, you should be able to gewt
small enough ones to fit, but you'll have to make sure they don't
get pushed through, as they don't have a nice big flange like
the plugs mentioned above. (4/01)
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Just to let those who gave suggestions (and others) know, here
is my 'ultimate solution' to the front number plate falling off
problem:
1. Buy a pack of number plate plastic bolts and nuts (Halfords)
2. Remove the plastic mounting box from the car
3. Drill out the two number plate holes to accept the plastic
bolts and now here's the clever bit ...
4. Glue the two nuts inside the plastic box over the holes -
run the bolts through to make sure they line up
5. With the bolts still screwed in, re-attach the plastic box
to the car
6. Remove the bolts, offer up the number plate and very carefuly
screw the bolts back in
7. .... err, that's it! (4/01)
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To help anyone that is unclear as to how you will be affected
by the new regulations these are quotes from a document prepared
by Saab and Hills (the number plate manufacturer) What Happens
To Old Registration Plates? 1/ Existing number plates need not
be changed provided the font used is substantially the same as
the new digit style. 2/ Number plates must be replaced if they
have been customised with: - Stylised letters and figures such
as italics - Number plate fixing bolts that alter the appearance
of the letters or numbers - Failure to replace such number plates
may result in keepers risking prosecution.
Q: THE NEW REG MARKS ALL HAVE 7 CHARACTERS AND THE HEIGHT AND
WIDTH IS SPECIFIED. I HAVE A MOTORBIKE/IMPORTED CAR WHERE THERE
IS INSUFFICIENT ROOM TO DISPLAY THE MARK IN THE NEW FORMAT. CAN
I HAVE A SHORTER NO. OR MAKE UP A PHYSICALLY SMALLER NO. PLATE?
A: No, all new numbers will have 7 characters and the size and
spacing of those characters is laid down precisely. It is essential
for road safety and law enforcement that all number plates can
be easily read. No concession can be given where a vehicle does
not sufficient, appropriate space to display the mark that has
been assigned to it. It is the keepers responsibility to ensure
that the number plate is in the correct format and displayed clearly
in the correct manner. Where the registration mark is not displayed
correctly the keeper may be committing an offence in law.
Q: WILL MOTORISTS HAVE TO CHANGE THEIR EXISTING NUMBER PLATES
TO THE NEW FONT?
A: The vast majority of motorists will not be directly affected
by the regulations. However those motorists who have number plates
that are not substantially the same as the new mandatory font
should change them for plates that comply with new regulations.
Once the new font becomes compulsory existing number plates using
any typeface that is not substantially the same as that specified
in the regulations will be illegal.
These are the bits that I consider relevant to this list but
there are a lot more questions and answers that apply to the user
and to people like me in the trade that actually make the plates.
My understanding is that we will be licenced to make plates eventually
and as our name and post code identifies us there is no way that
we will make any plate that will risk that licence. If anybody
has any further questions I will try and find the answer for you
but the way I see it is that there will be quite a market for
the UK replacement rear panel. (8/01)
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| Here's a clear guide as to the existing and new registration plates
requirements: http://www.roads.dtlr.gov.uk/vehicle/sva/pi5/11.htm
(8/01) |
|
Lets get a few facts out to put this "problem" into perspective.
The maximum fine for incorrect display of a registration number
is 1000 - would you be prepared to risk having to pay this? Refer
http://www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk/plates.htm
Remember you don't own a registration number - only the right
to use it. If you have a plate you've bought and are subsequently
done for having an illegal numberplate, it is quite possible that
the number will be taken away from you and a substitute registration
issued.
"The DVLA plans to work with the Association of Chief Police
Officers (ACPO) to crackdown on drivers. From 1 March people without
correctly displayed plates may have their registration marks withdrawn
permanently without compensation" Ignoring the 1000 fine, the
situation for anyone who has purchased a registration like me
is that it is just not worth trying to get away with not having
a legal numberplate. The sooner everyone realises this and complies,
the better. (8/01)
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| It seems pretty certain that motorcycle style rear plates will
soon be fully legal for all imported cars with small indented areas
for rear plates. The government web site has published a consultation
document with just that proposed. Comments are invited from various
bodies by 28 August 2001. To see it for your self:- www.dvla.gov.uk/public/consult/reg_marks/regmarks_consult.htm
If you are buying plates, make sure that you ask for motor cycle
64mm characters for the rear, not full size characters with reduced
vertical spacing which will still be illegal. At last, something
sensible from the legislators! (9/01) |
| Thank you for your recent e-mail enquiry about the introduction
of the Road Vehicles (Display of Registration Marks) Regulations
2001. I am sorry for the delay in responding. The Government has
announced its intention to provide an exemption for vehicles imported
into the United Kingdom from outside the European Community and
constructed in way that means they are unable to display a standard
size number plate. The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency has conducted
a consultation into the display of the "motorcycle" size character
on number plates for these vehicles. During the consultation a problem
was identified regarding the minimum margin and spacing requirements.
We are currently considering other solutions. Once a solution is
found the regulations will be amended. The police are aware of the
current and proposed situation. It is envisaged that it will apply
to imported vehicles and vehicles registered in the United Kingdom
prior to 1 September 2001 as long there has been no modifications
to allow the vehicles to accommodate a standard size number plate.
There is currently no legal requirement for number plate manufacturers
or suppliers to provide legally compliant number plates. I hope
this is helpful, but should you require anything further please
do not hesitate to contact me. Yours sincerely Mrs Suzanne Rees
Vehicle Policy Unit (12/01) |
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