So how certain are people that a Mk2 top fits a Mk1 then? Any examples anywhere? (1/00)
At one of the central alabama miata club sites, they modified a Mk2 top to fit a Mk1 frame (looked like a lot of bodging to me; the top must have been very cheap). Miata.net seem pretty certain that the top+frame is a straight swap. (1/00)

Good news is there doesn't appear to be a visual issue with fitting. The mounting plates appear to be the same, on the seatbelt housing. The general dimensions MUST be the same as a hardtop is universal be it MK1 or Mk2

So to be sure I've done some measuring, as I forgot the tape yesterday if someone wants to do a quick comparison think it will be fine.

Top of Windscreen Pillar to rearmost part of door opening = 55cm ( then comes back in about 3 cm )

Top of Windscreen Pillar to start of major curve in roof line in door = 50cm

Vertical height of door opening = 32cm

From front of door seal following the outside of the hood at body level to first edge of rear chrome hardtop mounting lugs = 64cm

From Centre of Seatbelt Nut to back of soft top = 39cm

Inside car, Between outside seals of top = 137cm

Inside car, from press stubs in carpet to back of stoptop area ( internal ) = 43cm MAX, and 36cm flat, slight incline from there to back of interior area.

Unit mounts on a bracket just below the seat belt pillar on a 5 Bolt mounting, the lowest most bolt doesn't have a nut on it on either side.

At the front of this mount the two bolts line up

top front bolt = 3cm from top ( centre )
bottom front bolt = 7.5cm from top bolt ( centre to centre )

The three remaining bolts form a sort of V shape

Top rear bolt = 6cm from middle rear bolt ( centre to centre )
Middle rear bolt = 4cm from front bottom bolt ( centre to centre )
Bottom rear bolt = 4cm from middle rear bolt ( NO NOT ON THIS ONE )

At the back of the mounting plate a metal bar ( part of the plate ) extends behind the 'plastic moulding, and I guess bolts in there as well.

On the passenger side there is a lug on the soft top frame to operate the heated rear window cut off pin switch. (1/00)

Before all you people rush off to fit a Mk2 hood to a Mk1 car, check with your insurance company to make sure they don't mind. I have checked with mine (Admiral), and they basically said, yes fine, you can do that, but we will not cover your car if it is written off. So guess what? Well, insurance companies constantly amaze me, but for the moment, it looks like I won't be fitting a new hood to my car. (1/00)
I am sure that not even an insurance asessor could tell the difference between a MK1 and MK2 hood in the event of a crash leading to the car being written off. What's more the only difference between the mk2 hood and the hood that you would expect to find on an average MK1 would be the glass rear window. So if this is the case then are we saying that fitting a glass rear window invalidates your insurance?....I very much doubt it. (1/00)
Picture proof. It can be done (allegedly) Tony Att from Bangkok says: Mr. Dewa of AWD did swap soft top from M1 into M2. Go to AWD website http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/~AWD/index.html http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/AWD/index.htmlGo to AWD's Miata. There are a few pictures about swapping his soft top (1/00)
I know we have said that the mk2 top will fit the mk1, but on Miata net there is the statement below, dont get me wrong I would love a new hood but I dont want to have to get the gas axe out to fit it..... ************************************
The soft top by itself will not fit. If the entire soft top frame is replaced, it will. (The M2 top has been successfully retrofitted to an M1 frame, though it requires some modification.)
************************************ (1/00)
It's already been confrimed elswhere that it fits, you either fit the new cover to the old frame (additional work), or you can just swap the whole thing. After undoing the rain rail, the frame is just held on by a couple of bolts on each side. Somebody has done it in the states. (1/00)

If you're swapping the hood with frame intact, the job is pretty straight forward. Some of you guys have already mentioned that the rainrails are fragile, shouldn't be a problem as long as you tackle the job with patience and the right tools. Useful tools that'll make life a lot easier....

10mm rachet spanner. This will make the removing of the 10mm retaining nut nearest to the frame pivot a piece of cake. Not a lot of space to play with!! Go into Halfords and you can get hold of the 2 ended angle ones, this tool is cheap and you're bound to use it again for other stuff.

While you're in Halfords... They should have a snake tongue type of tool that helps with the removal of the plastic retaining clips that hold the carpet down. Sometimes these clips can be a nightmare to remove without ending up with it looking like it's been used as chewing gum ;-) If you can't find one in Halfords, go to your local hardware store and pick up a nail remover. Miniture version of the forked end of a hammer but with the added bonus of having a bit of angle on the end to help with the leverage. You have to file the inside of the fork as it's usually too sharp and narrow.

Empty ice cream tub, no need to explain ;-)

Socket and rachet set for the removal of the retaining nut and bolts on the pivot. Can't remember if they're 14mm or 17mm.

Ideally, 1 person can do the removal quite easily. fitting will need two people as getting the main nuts/bolts on the pivot will need both sides of the frame to be properly aligned. If you can't seem to get the holes to align, try having the hood in various positions (half folded/folded/fully open).

Remember not to tighten the 10mm retaining nuts until you have all the bolts aligned through the holes in the rainrail. I always start with the hardest ones first ( remember the little buggers nearest to pivots) and work my way round.

Once you do the first car, the others should take no longer than 1.5 hrs for removal and fitting (2 persons) providing the hood/frame is compatible and you haven't lost any nuts ;-)

Have fun guys and hope this bit of info helps. (2/00)

Miniture version of the forked end of a hammer but with the added bonus of having a bit of angle on the end to help with the leverage. You have to file the inside of the fork as it's usually too sharp and narrow.

Old fork, with middle prongs bent a bit, just as effective and cheap.... (2/00)

Remember that the mk2 tops fit the mk1 hood only with the mk2 frame due to the glass rear window. (3/00)
Just to clarify can anyone tell me whether the glass will hit the rear factory fitted brace bar? If it does, I will need to get round this. Any ideas? I have been told previously that the brace bar can not be turned round as this seriously affects how far the seats can go back! It would be a major pain if I could not lower the roof at all! I don't suppose they are selling the Mark 2 brace bar with integral wind deflector? (1/00)

I had an accessory part nr for this Mark2 Windblocker NC10-V1-260F but somehow this is no longer available You can try part N053-68-3x0e-02 black board air and N053-68-3x0e-21 tan board air

AFAIK this air board doesn't have a brace bar attached. (1/00)

Has anyone of you who has fitted the hood from the mk2 on a mk1 with the Oris/OEM windbreaker ? Is it possible to open/close the roof with the windbreaker in-place ? (2/00)
The roof glass window won't get past the windbreaker. (2/00)
Yes it is possible, though you have to get out of the car to do it and you have to fit the windbreak 'backwards' with the 90 degree bends at the base facing forwards to give the clearance for the window to pass it. (2/00)
For those people who fitted their MKII soft tops on their MKI's.. Did/do you find it VERY hard to close the top? My old one used to be close easily without any need to heave, but this one (my new one!) when it is being closed is a fair few inches away from closing.....(got me?) Is this normal, will it stretch with time? (7/00)
Newer hoods do give over time. Try adjusting the catches a bit to make it easier. Its also recommended that when you fit a new hood, you are best to leave it up for 2 weeks to let it stretch a bit. I guess these hoods must have been near enough brand new when you get them. My Duetto hood is still a bit stiff to put up after 4 weeks. (7/00)