| Just got a shiny new gear knob for Christmas! How
do I remove the original one? Is it a case of just twisting it off?
(seems very tight if it is!) (1/00) |
| Yup it unscrews, the more you do it, the looser it becomes (ooh
err ?) (1/00) |
| If it's got an original knob, you just unscrew it. You should
be able to do it by hand, but they can be tight! Eat some spinach
first! ;-) (1/00) |
| I think that to get it off you turn it anti clockwise like you
would a normal screw. Mine was very tight the first time i took
it off (here we go again :) ) (1/00) |
| Are you sure there is not a little 'grub screw' in it? It may
be invisible unless you shine a light into the hole. (2/00) |
| Depends on the knob. Certainly the Momo ones are held on by three
grub screws. (2/00) |
| Check there aren't other grub screw/allen key holes. Momo knobs,
for instance, are held/centred by 3 allen key grub screws. A rubber
insert also ensures that the knob doesn't rattle on the gear lever,
and sometimes this can stick. (2/00) |
| I have an Autolock locking gadget which sleeves over the handbrake
and locks around the gear lever. When bought new (mine was actually
secondhand) these come with a phial of glue to fix the gear knob
on since otherwise the lock can be removed by unscrewing the gear
knob. Perhaps your car had one of these once - the only solution
may be to cut the knob off and replace both knob and lever though
I'd be first to admit this sounds rather severe. (2/00) |
| To all those who provided answers to my problem of the immovable
gearknob - Many Thanks. It was indeed that tiny little grub screw
which needed an allen-key to open. Thing was so small I couldn't
see it. Thankfully all my wrenching prior to that hadn't caused
any damage !! (3/00) |
| The gearknob isn't too much of a problem - simply unscrewed
the old one and screwed the new one on. The only problem is that
the new one doesn't screw down as far as the original leaving an
unsightly gap between the bottom of the knob and the gaiter, and
also allowing almost 1cm of movement up and down in the gaiter.
Is there any way to remedy this? (1/01) |
| I don't know the exact situation but couldn't you use a couple
or three O rings to take up the gap? (1/01) |
|
I had this problem too, and this is how I fixed it:
Leaving the gearknob in place, remove all the screws on the centre
console unit (the long one with the ashtray and gear lever aperture)(2
in centre console box, 1 under ash tray, one each side at front).
Carefully lift the unit up, so that the gear lever gaiter is turned
"inside out".
Either
a) get a helper to hold the console elevated, or
b) Lift the unit up at the back, and gam the back onto the roof,
so you can get your head underneath.
Locate the plastic ring on the underside of the console which
holds the gaiter onto the console.
Undo the four screws and loft off the console leaving the gaiter
on the gear stick.
Lift the gaiter where it should meet the gear knob until it does
reach the gear knob.
Notice that there is a metal ring to which the vinyl of the gaiter
is glued.
Taking a roll of electrical tape, start with the tape overlapping
the metal ring (ensuring the ring is as high as it can go), and
start winding! go up and down a lot ;o)) , going about two inches
down the gear lever shaft.
I suppose mine was covered in about four to five layers of tape
for about 2 inches from (and including) the metal ring.
Re-assemble console (1/01)
|
| I replaced my OEM Mk 2 gear knob with a Voodoo pistol grip , which
is the same shape as the original. No problems with any gap with
the gaiter. I subsequently replaced the vinyl gaiter with a leather
version. The original has a plastic O-ring which can be removed
and reglued onto the apex of the leather gaiter. The OEM black plastic
handbrake grip is only lightly glued on to the metal shaft, and
came off easily, as described, with a combined twist/pull. The handbrake
leather gaiter is a simple and effective upgrade as the Mazda plastic
cover is hideous. No need to remove the cover, just stick it over
like a jacket. (1/01) |
| If anyone has a Momo g/knob and is fed up with the dodgy "universal
fit" using the small grub screws then this
is the answer! Go to momo g/knob installation section for details.
The aluminium insert screws onto the lever and you mount/glue the
Momo g/knob onto the insert. G'knob can then be screwed on & off
like OE models. (1/01) |
| Don't you find static a problem with the nylon ones?.. real hair
every time for me. (1/01) |
| About a week ago I started getting a vibration and noise through
the gear knob. It occurs when the car is being driven (i.e. goes
away when coasting) and stops when you put a finger on the gear
knob. It sounds like something metallic touching the base of the
gear shift. I assumed it was lack of oil in the gear turret so I
took it all to bits (good instructions John, thanks) and the turret
was full. The gaiters were shot though. On a tangent, I assume the
top gaiter is the thing held in with 4 bolts and the bottom one
is the concertina thing? If not, I'm missing a gaiter! Anyway the
top one has a couple of tiny holes in it and the bottom one looks
like it's done Paris - Dakar and back. Would changing these make
the vibration go away or am I looking at something more serious?
92/01) |
| My original Nardi knob did this, I had to drive round with my
hand on the gear knob all the time. Turns out it was jsut loose
and needed tightening up. Simple really, but I guess you've already
tried that..? (2/01) |
| My friend has some dodgy after market Elcheapo gear Knob on her
car which if it isn't screwed on properly makes a noise exactly
like the one you describe.....rattles when you accelerate. I presume
you've checked this out though?? (2/01) |
| Is it the knob vibrating on the bit you tighten up? That's what
mine was. I tightened it as far as it would go (I assume its a screw
type) and then realised it was the bit inside the wood that then
screwed onto the stick. (2/01) |
| Presume not just exhaust touching somewhere... normal reason..
give it a wiggle in daylight.. (2/01) |
|
The Nardi knob is made up of 3 pieces: the wooden bit, the rubber
bit and a plastic insert which screws onto the threaded bit of
the gear lever. The problem I had was that the plastic bit and
the wooden bit had parted company, (the glue had just got old
and crumbled) but the plastic bit has ridges along its length
which stop it rotating (i.e. twisting when you hold it) so the
gear knob can be screwed on as tight as it will go (which mine
was) and still rattle.
I prised mine apart (the insert is about 2 inches long) and re
Araldited it and reassembled. The noise has now gone. Problem
is the Nardi badge now doesn't run "North/South", now its more
"Northeast\Southwest" so if you plan to do this yourself you might
want to mark the relative positions first. It takes care to prise
the bits apart without damaging them, which is another way of
saying mine was damaged, but I consider it to be OK. (2/01)
|
| The "original" Nardi gearknob is available from the following
website: http://www.sportscar-parts.com/ndshiftk.html
along with others. I have yet to find a UK supplier for the Nardi
gearknob. (5/01) |
| |