| I'm about to have a hood fitted and have questions for other '5 owners with heated windows.......where are all the other components located? I have the plug sitting on the back shelf, in the boot to the left of the catch is a 4 pin plug which I presume is for the relay, so I think all the wiring must be in place. Rods Miata manual seems to suggest that the element is operated by the air direction lever moving to demist position, is that so or will I have to buy a switch to go on the right of the steering wheel? Is the relay a latch-on type which times out after so many minutes and is there supposed to be a light somewhere to show that it's on? (11/99) |
| Relay plugs in behind number plate (under carpet), fuse block (if required) fits under aerial (not required if electric aerial already I think) and Mazda swich goes in free slot to left of fog light switch on dash. Relay is not on timer but orange light will glow on dash to left of fuel gauge (from memory) (11/99) |
| I've been checking out the wiring with a test meter in preparation for the fitment of my heated screen. Maybe when I get the dashboard switch things will be clearer, but all the wires and connectors agree with Rods Enthusiasts manual. The text and voltage checking sequence however, thrice mentions the presence of a defroster timer unit! Can't imagine where that could be located, but my meter shows 20 ohms to earth on the blue and red wire between switch and relay socket. 20 ohms is the sort of resistance normally associated with a relay coil or a small lamp (dash indicator possibly), but all the info I've seen suggests that the switch should ground this wire when turned on. I suppose I'd be better off waiting 'til I get the missing bits........then see if it all works. Has no-one delved this far into the wiring? (11/99) |
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Got a rear heated glass screen conversion done last week. During the fitting, they said there was a problem with my wiring. The supply for the heated screen was missing....and they couldn't understand why. I agreed to pay another £30 for another separate feed for the rear screen. Afterwards they said they had solved the problem. My fog light had been fitted utilising my rear screen power supply and they had disconnected it, and connected this supply to my rear screen. I was bit upset cos I had paid for a problem to be solved, but they had done something else and left me with another problem. Before I drove off, the engineer admitted he wasn't sure the rear screen was fully working. After frantically checking it, he did find it wasn't working. He couldn't find the problem and not only am I now left with my rear screen and fog light not working, but also my audio system isn't working too. They did remove a fuse as a safety precaution, but they don't see how that would affects the audio system. I've faxed them a letter for this matter to be resolved, but I haven't got any response. They did admit to me before I drove off that there obviously is a problem they need to look into. Any suggestions on how to handle the matter now? I am worried if the car goes back to them to be sorted out....they could say the problem was due to my car and hence charge me for it, even though I don't know if the problem lies with the screen. (12/99) |
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My fog light had been fitted utilisng my rear screen power supply and they had disconnected it, and connected this supply to my rear screen. All possible. But they do need to get the problem sorted. It's not rocket science and I'd have hoped that if you list everything that doesn't work, and everything you need to work, that they could take the car back for a day and get it all sorted. (12/99) |
| As many of us are soon to be fitting these new hoods with the heated rear screens, I was wondering if anyone knew how to wire a heated rear screen into a car that had not had one in previously? I presumably need to buy a switch, and run a couple of wires to the rear of the car? (2/00) |
| I guess you could wire it up to the hard top rear demister circuit (loom is standard on post1990 models, all types), and fit the requisite switch. (2/00) |
| If you don't have them fitted already you will need, a switch (left of the three on the right of the steering wheel), a relay (in the boot behind the carpet) and a fuse block (this is shared with the electric aerial so you may just need a 10A fuse). You may also need a connector for the roof. I would wait until the roof arrives to see what it is fitted with. Later MK1 cars have all the wiring in place. Imports may have problems if somebody has used the wiring for the fog light. (2/00) |
| I have just fitted a Mk2 roof from Astra and now want to connect the heated rear window. Mazda made the roof interchangeable but fitted different connectors to the screen! I have 3 wires from the car - purple, black, red/white and 3 wires from the window - white, black/white, black/blue dot. Er, any ideas anyone?? (2/00) |
| 2 of the wires are direct connections to the element, the third is a connection to the safety switch that at least on the mk2, cuts off the relay under the dash. The other side of the switch is earthed. (2/00) |
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My heated window is now working conection as follows: >From car red / white to white from window This does work but I haven't had the chance to try it out properly in the field, as it were. So it comes with no guarantees! (2/00) |
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I have not had any feedback regarding how to wire in the rear
window demister. I noticed that on Matt Clarkes site there is
Part Numbers: But these do not appear to be Mazda part numbers. I spoke to
mazda who quoted me the following - Now I dont know very much about electrics, but presumably I have to wire some power to the switch in the dashboard, then run a couple of wires to the rear plug on the demister, put the relay in (does the relay need its own power?) and then strip the plug off the hood and conect the wires in the correct order (2/00) |
| I would guess that all the wiring is already in the loom. So all that you need to do is attach the switch to the block behind the blank (the correct hole - not sure which but think closest to steering wheel), plug relay in the boot bit (i think) and away you go. N.B. I have not done this and am "guessing". But I am sure that someone at a mazda garage will tell you... (2/00) |
| They look like Moss numbers. (2/00) |
| Does the following help? You will need a switch, fuse, and a relay. If you don't have an electric aerial you will need a fuse block as well. The hardtop connector is the connector on the seat belt tower behind the passenger seat. Also if you have a Eunos the wiring may have been used for the fog light. (2/00) |
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For a heated rear replacement screen contact Matt Clark 0n 0181 803 1122 or e-mail at :- matt@mattdevelopments.co.uk or Mattsbusiness@aol.com Also see Mike Hayward's site http://freespace.virgin.net/mx5.mike and follow the links. (3/00) |
| Heated rear window wiring diagram here as pdf file (7/00) |
| I am currently wiring up my hardtop too. Different models have relays / fuses in different locations - but for mine which seems normal: You should have a relay in the boot behind the numberplate, and a fuse block with a 10A fuse also in the boot labelled "DEFOG" on mine (1997 1.8iS) by the battery under the antenna fixings. You will also need the switch for your dashboard too. I have the part numbers for these items if it helps. (11/00) |
| Part numbers for Hartop wiring bits + pieces: Relay: LA40-67-740 Switch: N007-66-460 Fuse block: N008-66-730 (11/00) |
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I wonder if you can help. I fitted the glass screened soft top from the ICON a few weeks backs. There were no problems and I'm very happy with the fit. I've just got round to wiring in the demister for which I need the relay in the rear of the boot and the switch for the dash board. The garage tell me that there are two possible switches with the choice being based on VIN number. The split is at UK VIN 207237. Can someone confirm for me that this is some time around 1991-1992? I think it is from discussions about VIN numbers for LWSC. My car is a late 94 L plate. So I'm pretty sure I want the post split part which is about 23 quid rather than the part based on my Japanese VIN which is 58 quid which I presume comes with shipping from Japan and a 4 week wait. Could someone please confirm that I'm right or give me an idea of what a UK VIN for similar age UK car to mine might be? (3/01) |
| If, when you investigate behind the switch blanks you find a small white connecter, then you need the more expensive switch (part no: NA75 66 460). If it is larger and blue, then you need the more common switch (part no: N007 66 460 00). (3/01) |
| The switch has not been moved it was deleted from July 1999 VIN change point JMZNB18**00135999 it says in my info that the switch that cuts the power to the rear defroster circuit when the hood is lowered has been deleted. The manufacturer has established that there are no detrimental effects if the rear defroster is switched on while the hood is lowered. (3/01) |
| You can still use the cheaper switch if you do not mind cutting off the white connector & replacing it with some spade connectors (3/01) |
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I have finally sorted my HRW wiring. In case others are interested, here are the details assuming your 5 is factory fitted with the fuse block next to battery, relay socket behind number plate and socket on parcel shelf behind passenger seat. I fitted a relay and found a small white plug behind the switch panel to the right of the steering wheel. This plug had the following wires: 2 x red/blacks, purple, green/yellow, blue/red and black. This plug is designed for the later and very expensive 'demi-plug', I fitted a standard early switch so I cut the white plug off and fitted standard 1/4" spade terminals to the red/black (switch illumination), black (ground), blue/red (to relay) and purple (to parcel shelf socket). Then I joined the purple and black in the parcel shelf socket together (apparently this connection is made when the OEM hard top plug is plugged in and feeds an earth to the switch (disables HRW when hard top not fitted). The red/black and black illuminate the switch when side lights are on and the blue/red and purple are connected to the switch contact terminals. When you operate the switch, the earth from the purple is connected to the blue/red and operates the relay. I suspect the green/yellow operates an HRW lamp in the instrument panel, will check this out when I get the instrument panel out. (5/02) |