Well, I've now 'fitted' my new Robbins hood to the car.
What was described as an afternoon's work took two days and there's still a few bits of trim to put back but that's to be expected. It wasn't as hard as I'd feared but was also not as easy as I'd hoped and I've taken a few shortcuts as well! Here are my experiences for anyone else considering doing this job.

I used the instructions from Brian Dore's web page in the main, with occaisional reference to the manufacturers instructions and those in the MX5 Enthusiasts Manual (which recommended taking the frame off the car first) Both of the cables that run along the edges of the roof on the old one had broken a long time ago (the snapped ends were extremely corroded) and untill I can get or make replacements, they're staying out. I'm not sure what they are supposed to do but they didn't seem critial. The cable was described as being rivited at the front but I found it screwed in which was a bonus. The area around the hinge was very awkward to fit with the roof still on the car and in fact, although it looks fairly neat and tidy, that area is not fitted correctly. I have not replaced any of the rivets down there.

There is a slight wrinkle in the fabric on both sides This is possibly what the spring-loaded cable was supposed to remove. Brian describes removing the front weatherstrip, pulling the fabric tight and replacing the weatherstrip to remove the wrinkle, however the weatherstrip doesn't hold the fabric. I think a small amount of evostick on the top of the front of the frame may just hold it if the tension can be maintained while the glue dries. In the end, I didn't use a single rivet! They either went around the hinge which I couldn't get enough access to or they were in addition to screwed on set plates which look like they should hold perfectly well (famous last words).

The rear set plates were a pig to fit. Follwing the suggested nut tightening order (oerr) didn't work for me. Instead, I started at the middle and worked outwards which gradually pulled the fabric onto the studs and allowed the remaining set plates and hex nuts to be fitted.

It all seems alright at the moment but I'll see what happens when it rains!

For anyone else attempting this, for a proper job I recommend removing the frame. It would then allow you to fit the hood to the hinge area properly. Brian's instructions are at http://zeus.usl.edu/bkd3019/miata/miatatop/ (11/99)

AS someone who has done removed the hood for stitch in time stuff, I can recommend removing the hood with the frame as a job lot. Not difficult and pretty quick. Makes working on the hood itself much easier. The spring loaded cables are to provide sufficient tension to pull the sides of the hood out over the glass and seal when the window is up.

I had two similar (because the rt angle swage on the mazda cable is bespoke) new ones manufactured at a yacht chandlery because the cable was not available as a spare part. Next higher assembly was the hood. Once the hood is off the job is not as daunting as it seems, However I suggest one uses the "genuine" instructions. (11/99)