Did you take off the upper one? This upper one is just a seal, but there's a metal disk beneath with a rubber bit in the middle, and this one actually acts as a pivot for the gear stick. On mine the lower one was *much* worse than the upper.

I seem to remember just under 20 quid for the upper one and just over 15 quid for the lower.

1) Make sure you have a large rag handy to catch a bit of oil.
2) Make sure you have 90cc of gearbox oil.
3) Get some 4mm tube to drain some turret oil. Some say a turkey baster. Ours wouldn't fit.
4) Remove the centre console after unscrewing gearstick.
5) Remove the upper gaiter.
6) Remove the lower disk/gaiter (you'll need a couple of extensions on the socket) and remove the gearstick. The bottom is probably very messy, and this is where the large rag is used!
7) Remove the plastic stays and either slide or cut off the old gaiters.
8) The new ones look like they don't fit. Use a little silicone grease on the black shaft of the gearstick and slide them down it. They expand to fit. Think "childbirth". :-)
9) Drain any old oil out of the turret that the stick fitted in to. At 45k and 6 years mine didn't have a single drop. Stick in 90cc of new oil.
10) Assuming you got the gaiters on the right way up, the gearstick will bolt back on as "the reverse of disassembly". ;-)
11) Make sure you got all the wires and insulation back around the gaiter OK. Check that the gaiters don't wrinkle and pop as you change gear.
12) Replace the centre console and have a beer.

Total time taken should be less than an hour and it's easier to do than describe! (1/00)

These should be the part numbers.

Boot dust change m514-17-480a - this is the bottom (little) one.
Insulator no1, change na01-64-481b - this is the top (big) one. (1/00)

What you need is Redline Synthetic oil in the gearbox - type MTL if it's really sticky - you can get two litres by mail order from Donutz (www.donutz.co.uk) or Demon Tweeks (01978 664466)

These instructions specifically for Mk 1 - never done it on a Mk 2

Gaiters - remove the centre console (5 screws - 2 in locker thingy, one under ash tray, 2 at front corners
- Unscrew gearknob, lift and wiggle console unit to clear fuel filler release etc
- watch out for and disconnect electrical connectors)
You will see heat insulator around gearstick.
Undo 4 bolts holding it and remove.
If it's old, it's toast - full of holes.
If it's not too bad, you can patch it up temporarily with gaffer tape. Preferably replace.
There is probably a very tight nylon ring holding top of gaiter - cut it to remove the gaiter.
Replace with cable tie, or if you're replacing gaiter, the new one has a ring fitted.
Under it, you will see top of gearchange turret.
3 bolts hold the top cover, which incorporates a seal/flat rubber gaiter.
Remove 3 bolts, and lift gearstick + seal.
If it has holes in it, replace.
Whilst you're there, check turret is reasonably full of oil. If not, refill it - not up to top - leave room for the gearstick gubbins. (It takes 90cc from dry - gearbox oil)
Replacing the seal just needs brute force to slide it off gearlever - doesn't look possible, but it is.
Reverse for replacement.
When you replace gearstick/top cover, you need to engage pin on gearknob pivot (stops it rotating).

Doing this a) keeps dirt out of turret and stops oil escaping (it disappears anyway - dunno where to)/ b) keeps centre console cooler (lots of hot air comes up through hole in floor and through holes in heat insulator/ c) improves gearchange ease and precision - don't really understand why, but it does. (1/01)

Er, the top boot; what does it actually do, besides keep the wind out? Both mine are split, but I feel its only really necessary to repace the bottom one. (3/00)

You mean the centre console isn't *supposed* to get warm/hot??

Warm - yes. Hot- no.

I've noticed that it got quite warm...even with the heater off...I thought this was normal (?) My audio tapes get quite hot if I've been on a long drive...do you think this could be due to a cracked top boot?

Yes - it's worth a look (They dont so much crack as disintegrate- you'll probably find big tears all round. It's a sort of convoluted gaiter thing, like a fwd drive shaft boot) Also make sure the bottom holding plate is flat, not warped to leave gaps underneath. (3/00)

Sounds like the rubber boots around the stick are falling to bits. Without these gear selection can be iffy, and the lower one holds the gearstick in place!

Unscrew centre armrest (half a dozen screws, check in storage box and under ashtray), whip off gearstick and ease console out (careful of window switch wires and fuel/foot release levers). Unbolt the upper rubber boot and then you can see the lower boot. 10mm with a long extension will do it.

It's only a five minute job to get to this stage, so you can take a peek and report back. (12/00)