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For some reason or another my roadster seems to have a problem with getting fuel into the engine. Basically the symptoms are that the car will start but as soon as the revs have fallen from the initial ignition the engine just cuts out. Even if you put your foot on the accelerator nothing happens. The revs die and the engine cuts out. This has now started to happen as I am driving as well - on the fast lane of the duel carrageway this morning the car decided to die - not a lot of fun, just about managed to get my beloved car onto the central embankment! So suffice to say I am off the road until I can fix my poor car. Any ideas what it could be? It seems for some reason that the petrol is just not getting into the engine properly. Could it be a fuel filter problem? Any ideas? Anyone? Help please? (2/00) |
| Had a similar thing once with my Golf GTI due to a faulty injection relay. I had been a little bit too enthusiastic while steam-cleaning the engine, water had seeped into the relay-board frying some electric's. (2/00) |
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There are many, many things that it could be, but fuel filter seems unlikely to me as even if clogged it should be OK at idle. Simple things to check. |
| When I spoke to my local Mazda garage before I bought my import they said that they had only seen a problem with one Roadster and that was to do with fuel lines, not sure exactly what the problem was but they had to replace all the fuel lines as enough fuel wasn't getting to the engine. It cost the guy £1500 to get the problem rectified at Mazda (cheaper elsewhere i'm sure). Anyway it could be something completely different but that springs to mind. (2/00) |
| It would be helpful if you could give us some informations about your car, like model year, mileage, any mods ...... A shot in the dark for a problem like that is the connection from air flow meter to ECU. If the ECU sees no airflow, it cuts fuel supply. And, as said above, check the error codes. (2/00) |
| My roadster is a 1992 model, 1.6, 50K miles, and no modifications to the engine.... Any idea? BTW can you explain it to me like I am a 5 year old - that's about the level of my mechanical knowledge!! (2/00) |
| Get the book/kit from donutz that show you how to read ECU codes. Sounds to me like the fastest way get it fixed is to go to an independent fuel injection specialist, who in my experience are cheaper and better than a Mazda dealer for these kinds of things. (2/00) |
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BTW can you explain it to me like I am a 5 year old - that's about the level of my mechanical knowledge!! You really need to go to a specialist then, or find someone local who can do the 30 minute check over for the obvious stuff. The air flow meter is on the right hand (passenger on RHD) side as you look into the engine bay. It sits on top of the air box and a big black tube that crosses over the engine to the throttle body connect to it. There's an electrical connector on it that's secured with two metal clips. It's possible this connector is intermittent and removing/refitting might be enough to get it to work. I'm also told the flapper AFM is pretty crude and can get dead spots. Maybe you need a new AFM (try Jay Ng). BUT a fault code from the ECU, or trying a loan one (10 minutes to swap them over) needs doing before going to that expense. If you can solder a resistor to an LED you can check for engine fault codes. If you have a meter you can do a basic check of all of the sensors that the ECU has. If you have no tools and no manual then it's really a case of find a specialist or go to a Mazda dealer. BTW Ignore all the "ooo, Japanese ECU, faults in Kanji, must fly specialist from Japan" bollocks you might get. (2/00) |
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Anyone know how much fuel filters are? Scimitar (www.mx5parts.co.uk) list one at £20.62. I think Moss do them as well. Then there's more options: - Mazda dealer - other 3rd party (e.g. through Halfords? other independents?) - buy from US dealer (2/00) |
| Resolved! Basically the connector that is fitted to the Airbox meter was missing the little metal bit that holds it firmly in place. As a result the connector was loose and occassionally breaking the electric circuit, thus making the engine believe that there was no air coming in and hence it was shutting down the fuel supply. I think that explains it as simply as possible. (2/00) |
| Basically we took the whole aribox apart to see if there was any blockages. Then I put it all back together and forgot to re-insert the connector. Obviously the car started and just cut out as per my original symptoms - and then there was the inspiration..... "Maybe its a loose connector!!!! " ;o) So anyway at the moment it is being held firmly in place by a tie wrap thingy. Better go and acquire the proper metal bit. Anyone know what it is called? (2/00) |
| I seem to remember the metal bit is part of the plug, which is part of the wiring loom. Best bet might be to find a scrappy and get them to cut the whole plug from a wiring loom. You can then get the bits you need. Shouldn't cost more than a few quid. Or try Jay Ng. Though you may find the plastic tie will work for a few decades to come! (2/00) |
| I had one of the spades go inside my connector, and needed a new one. Couldn't find a scrapper that would sell me just the plug, only the whole loom (several hundred £). I ended up bodging it. BTW, my plug has been without it's metal clip for a couple of years now, I left the clip off, as it's virtually impossible to get at because the AFM is turned around with the S/C. Never had any problems with it coming off, mind you, because of the position of my AFM, the plug is pointing straight up, so gravity does it's part here, and the plug is a reasonably tight fit. (2/00) |
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I have recently purchased a V Spec Eunos with which I am extremely pleased. However I am a little concerned with the engine pick at low revs (say 1500 RPM to 2500 RPM) It feels as though it's some kind of fuel starvation. This is causing the car to act sluggish until high revs are obtained. I have discovered that I may have the wrong type of fuel cap - does not seem to vent correctly ?? If I leave it slightly loose the engine performs a little better, though it definately still is not right. Also I have ran the tank rather low, could I have perhaps blocked up a fuel filter ?? Can any one advise me if and where the in line fuel fileter is locacted ??? Also can any one please tell me if I should be using unleaded or Lead Replacement fuel ??? - the car is a 1990 model. Barring a fuel supply issue, can any one out there shed any further "clues" to my problem - Has any one suffered the same problem. For info, the car has covered 42 000 MILES and had a major engine service (> £600 , including cam belt etc etc. in May 2000) (7/00) |
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Well fuel filter is in front of rear drivers wheel .. reached from under the car .. you can hear the fuel pump sometimes from there. The fuel cap should trap pressure .. and when you release it there will be a gasp of pressure coming out .. NOT a vacuum which draws air in - a vacuum would make the car suffer more fuel starvation .. pressure makes is less likely The last one would be the air filter being dirty but less likely.. .. and if they did the cambelt .. did they get it back together with one of the cam teeth one tooth out? .. or mess up the timing... this sounds more likely to be the problem as fuel or air starvation would get worse with higher rpm .. not better .. except there is a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) which increases fuel pressure with vacuum .. so at idle and pulling up hills at rpm .. a blocked fuel filter would cause it to run lean and give you the symptoms... .. the last one would be ignition leads ..best to replace them as a precaution anyway (with Magnecores). Unleaded fuel .. you can use the expensive stuff but it does very little for you .. smoother, slight power increase but at a cost.. (7/00) |
| I experienced similar problems when I owned a Golf GTI. The car was a 1990 MkII. It was fitted with a Digifant electronic injection pack as standard. The car behaved in an identical fashion to your Eunos Roadster, ie dragging its heels, performing well below expectations. Eventually My local VW dealership took the car in to its workshop and spent a fortnight stripping and replacing components. They eventually discovered minute holes in the gasket which fitted between the injector assembley and the engine. This had been allowing additional , unrequired air in to the cylinders. This occurred after the fuel/air mixing had taken place and did not show on any of the diagnostic checks which were carried out. Following this work the car ran faultlessly. (7/00) |
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I have an upadate on the problem I am experiencing...............
A local "Halfords" type Sunday Serving Centre believes that it is most probabley some kind of fuel/air starvation. No signs at all of engine misfiring. No overheating The car is progressively getting worse. I can only compare it to something like driving with the brakes on (which they are not) or towing a caravan (which I am not) This makes the car slow right down when climbing hills etc. The rev pick up in neutral is very sluggish and not at all "free". My local Mazda dealer snorted when he saw the car was a Eunos V Special, and started mumbling about Di Agnostic (whoever she is!!!) Any how, he can't give me a time slot before 1st August. This car was serviced in May of this year by a "proper" Mazda Garage. The car was belived to be o.k. at that time (I only purchased the car in July). Has any one any further ideas out there ??? (7/00) |
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Might be worth a long shot but easy to check engine idle speed adjustment. You need to short out the ecu with a paper clip can't remember which pins and car in garage and set the idle revs to 850 rpm. What I can say is my car ran aweful after a local garage tinkered with the idle screw (without being asked) I stalled if the heater wasn't on and generally ran completely wrong. I was expecting big bills but checked all the obvious and easy things first and the idle speed cured all my faults. Worth a go as only takes 2 mins. (7/00) |
| See Mr Donutz and his magical letter from Di Agnostics... lets your ECU talk to you. (7/00) |
| You really should try and read any engine fault codes. DO some web searching or buy the book/LED from Donutz. BTW What year is it? Did you check the crank pulley? (7/00) |
| With a air mass based fuel computer the other thing which may be occurring is not enough air through the air meter. There could be an air leak downstream of the flow meter in which case the engine is running too lean or perhaps one of the sensing lines is blocked or crimped. Alternatively the engine may not be breathing properly - period. Restricted inlet flow. Also recommend getting or making a diagnostic LED. (7/00) |
| Result: It was simply a timing thing - the distributer (??) had moved slightly. (7/00) |
| Crank (actually cam) angle sensor. Held with just one bolt. A good guess is that this wasn't tightened properly when the timing was last adjusted. It sounds like it drifted such that your engine was very retarded. The other way and it'd have gone great until your pistons melted. :-( (7/00) |