Is it worth changing the fuel filter.?....I have a roadster, and have the jap service history...(great!) but I dont know when the filter was last changed, or even if its had it since new. I checked with our local Autela and the are £19 + vat, Is it best to get a Mazda one? Also are they quite easy to fit... (12/99)
They do go .. but on N/A they take some time .. turbo cars that suck twice the fuel notice them at 40,000 miles I would guess .. I still have an original. (12/99)
There is a Unipart fuel filter listed for the '5. Part No. GFE7081 RRP 15.38
It also lists a different filter for the turbos, this is a GFE7082 with RRP 22.31 (2/00)
I need to try and locate my fuel filter. Does anyone know exactly where this is on a 91 1.6 UK MX5? I haven't got access to ramps at the moment but will have shortly. Is it a DIY job? Cheers for your help and pardon me if I sound thick. I've only owned my MX 5 a week and want to change everything to ensure it runs like a peach. (4/00)
Look in front off the rear wheel - Driver's side for UK. It's under the little plastic tray. Left it to the garage to change it, he made a real mess off it. I heard you should open the fuel cap first to relieve the fuel pressure. (4/00)
Step one is to pull the fuel injection relay while the car is running. It stops immediately, and the the gas cap needs to be taken off. Then I put it back on. Due to gravity, you will still splash some fuel around, but the amount can be limited with little plugs or clamps on the fuel lines while the filter is changed. (4/00)

I heard you should open the fuel cap first to relieve the fuel pressure.

Hmm - I've seen that before. It's not enough - the fuel tank pressure is residual pressure from the spill line (comes with the excess fuel which the fuel pressure regulator passes). You will still have pressure (high) in the line from the fuel pump to the filter, which you have to undo.

True - the quantity released is not all that great, but fuel spraying around is not a good thing. What you should do is start the engine, then disconnect the circuit opening relay connector (under the dash - it has a number of wires - White/Red, Violet, Black, Lt. Green and Blue/Red attached to its plug). Wait for the engine to stall.

Turn off ignition. Do whatever work on fuel system you need (eg change fuel filter) (NB - use rags to protect from fuel spills - you'll still get a bit of spray and seepage, and have the new filter ready - fuel will drip, if not flow!)

Reconnect relay, then bridge F/P and GND in the diagnosis connector box, turn the ignition on for 10 secs (this runs the pump and saves churning the engine to pressurise the fuel lines - also gives you the opportunity to check for fuel leaks), turn off ignition, remove bridge wire, start engine.

Just MHO, but always one for safe practice! (NB - the pressure in the fuel lines is over 20 psi - imagine fuel rather than air coming out of a tyre valve) (4/00)

Step one is to pull the fuel injection relay while the car is running. It stops immediately, and the the gas cap needs to be taken off.

Sorry, - IMHO this doesn't work either (OK I agree the fuel cap needs to be removed). If you pull the FI Relay, the engine stops immediately because the injectors stay closed, leaving most of the fuel pressure in the fuel line (as I say, if you disconnect a pressurised line, not that much fuel is released before the pressure drops to zero, but you want to minimise it as much as possible). You have to stop the fuel pump with the engine running to eliminate most of the fuel pressure (the engine continues to run for 2-3 seconds or more after you stop the pump) - you could disconnect the connections to the fuel tank, but the most accessible connection is the main circuit opening relay. (BTW - your colours may vary for wires to the relay - colours posted earlier were for original 1.6) (4/00)
Sounds right. But I have changed 3 fuel filters with this method (mentioned in Miata Magazine, IIRC), and there was no residual fuel pressure present!? (4/00)