|
New fogs but how should I wire them correctly? 1. Can I take power from the dipped lights "switched live"
wire or I already have a rear fog which is live when dips are on, and switched from the dash. Tried connecting to this loop but blew the fuse (dash and side lights). (1/00) |
| You can still use that wire, but use a relay instead to switch them. The relay coil only takes a few hundred mA so will not blow the fuse. Take the live feed for the switched side of the relay directly from the main 80A fuse in the fusebox, but also fit a 15A in line fuse to your circuit. Hella, Ring etc make a suitable relay - Halfords have them.. (1/00) |
| I have still to get around to installing mine that have been in the boot for a couple of months. However I have done some research on the legal requirements relating to front fogs etc and put this info out a week or 2 ago but basically I would feed these from the dipped lights or from a new feed via relay to dash switch. Legally (from memory) fogs can be on with/without any other front lamp but they must only be used in conditions of seriously reduced visibility. I posted the actual requirements a couple of weeks ago. (1/00) |
| I have a 1993 Eunos Roadster to which I have added front fog lamps. I have sorted the wiring but want to use an OEM switch. The rear lights are already installed with an OEM switch which has an on-board indicator lamp and I have seen similar switches with an appropriate graphic in other Eunos imports fro front fogs. However Mazda UK only appear to be able to supply a switch with a graphic for the rear fogs, and this has no indicator lamp. Does anyone know where I can get hold of an appropriate switch? (1/00) |
| Don't fog lamp switches (at least for rear) have to be illuminated to pass MOT ? (1/00) |
| There's a "rear fog on" indicator on the dash warning lights panel on UK cars. For this reason, UK fog lamp switches are not completely appropriate for Roadsters, and quite a few people have failed their MoT for this. There has to be a warning light - not necessarily on the switch. The UK warning light position is used to say "your cat has gone out to lunch" on Roadsters! Moss do front fog light switches, AFAIK. (1/00) |
| Take a look at my site for the modification of the dash panel for an indicator lamp. Requires a bit of work, but not too difficult The site is far from ready, but some info is available already. http://saturn.spaceports.com/~miata or http://come.to/miata (1/00) |
| The fog light switch that Moss sell is the same as the Mazda rear fog light switch. However there must be a Mazda front fog light switch. The MK2 Sport has front fog lights fitted as standard, and they used to be a Finishline accessory for the MK1. So does anybody know the part number for the switch? (1/00) |
|
Finishline foglamp set (white) N001-V7-220F Not sure if it will still be available though. (1/00) |
| Are there brackets underneath the bumper or do you have to drill holes and fit them direct onto the bumper? (2/00) |
|
Are you fitting them in the mouth, or under the bumper? If you're fitting them in the mouth, it depends how they are fixed on. I was going to fit mine either side of the mouth. My fogs came with 2 types of bracket. One with 2 screws, and one with a bolt. I started fixing the screw on ones at the edges and all went fine until I went to fix the light to the bracket. They attached using 2 screws either side - NO WAY was I going to get a screwdriver in to tighten the screw nearest the edge! Started to get a bit mardy at this point. After calming down, and looking at the situation, found a couple of holes closer in that were exactly the right size for the bolts. The position won't suit everyone though, or suit all lights either. You can see the position at www.smalley.org.uk/lightson.jpg As for the wiring, get a wiring kit from somewhere like Halfords. (about a tenner) These should come with a relay and switch (which will probably be sh!t, but it'll keep you going till you get a proper one). (I think about 35 quid from Moss). You'll probably need a couple of snap lock connectors and other
bits: Piccy at www.smalley.org.uk/connectors.jpg Basically all you have to do is (Instructions should be with
wiring kit anyway): |
| I replaced the Mazda fog lights on my 5 and used their bracket's but had to drill a extra hole as the fixing on the new lights were not that wide. The only other thing I found with the old bracket is that the lights pointed down to much and had to make some angled spacers. (2/00) |
|
Well spent some of the day sorting out the wiring for my front fogs (finally). I have 2 queries though that will need answering before I can finish the job.... 1. On the fuse box (drivers side engine bay) there is the main 80A fuse. Is this removable, I tried and failed. Seems well secure to me, all other fuses etc are removable just this one won't come out. Basically I need to take my live feed for the fog lamps from here but need to know which side of the fuse is the batt. side and which side is the fused side. I will connect my relay's feed to whichever side (bolt connection) is the fused side. 2. I am going to use the current rear fog switch for the front fogs and use the OEM front fog switch for the rear fogs (it seems more sensible this way, as the icons will make left facing back and right facing front). Would it be sensible to take a Y off of the rear fog switch to feed the front fog switch to trigger the relay (thus making the front fogs only switchable when the headlamps are on)? Is the rear fog connected via a relay or does the switch carry the full current? (4/00) |
| If you remove the fuse box from body ( 2 x10mm nuts ) you will find a small flap on the side. Open it and undo the 10 mm bolt - everything will die so have codes etc to hand - then can get power direct there. Engine fuse box appears to be same for MK1 and MK2 from what I've seen so far!. (4/00) |
| So is the side of the fuse box with the flap the non fused 80A feed from the battery ? or is it the fused side of the battery ? How come I can't get the 80A fuse out ? All very confusing, I think the only thing affected by the batt. being disconnected is the stereo, It lost its settings yesterday when I was pulling various fuses in the main box. (4/00) |
| Fused side if take the flap OR can scotch lock on the white and red which comes from the 40amp fused side, underneath. Why can't it come out - don't know not tried or looked to be honest - just needed the power and took what I wanted! (4/00) |
|
Well finally got the whole thing sorted :) wahey If anyone else is doing this the best option for taking the feed for the fogs is from the fusebox on the engine side. There is a thick white cable mounted via a 10mm bolt which is the 80A fused side of the battery. The 2 thick black leads are the unfused side of the battery. The revs drop when the lamps are switched on but not really surprising when its idling and the headlamps are on as well as the 55W fogs. They are incredibly bright (more than I expected), but then 55W Halogen H3 bulb with a 40mm diameter lens I am not surprised, just have to aim them correctly now or I may blind people :( I moved the rear fog switch to the middle switch position and used the OEM front fog switch to operate it. I then used the rear fog switch for the front fogs in the right hand hole (this is because the decals are more logical this way, facing left for back and right for front). (4/00) |
|
Got round to wiring up my projector foglights in the mouth this weekend. Surprisingly easy when I had worked out the existing wiring.Using a foglight switch from a Mazda 323 this works as OEM.The wiring loom exists to a 2 pin multi connector near the fusebox under the bonnet.1pin carries the continuous 12V from a 15 amp fuse in this fusebox to power the lamps,the other a yellow/green carries the switched power to operate the relay. (9/01) |
