The lock on my driver's side door has started jamming (in the 'getting stuck' sense, as opposed to the 'Bob Marley' sense). The key turns fully, and makes the usual springy click noise as though the lock is opening - but the door remains locked. The black knob thing on the internal door handle only slides about 3/4 of the way across and won't go any further. After repeatedly locking/unlocking the door it eventually opens. This weekend I'm going to take the door trim off to see if anything is catching on the lock mechanism. Has anyone had similar problems, and is there anything I should check for? (The car is a Mk1 without central locking.)

In the meantime, if the lock gets stuck again what would be the 'coolest' (I hate that word) way of getting into the car? Should I :-
(a) climb across from the passenger side with all the grace of an inebriated elephant;
(b) paint '01' on the door and climb through the window;
(c) open the softtop and do a sort of long jump by running up and over the boot (ignoring the fact that I exceed its load bearing capacity by about 80Kg) and then leap into the drivers seat. (11/99)

I have the same problem with my drivers side doorlock. Sometimes it refuses to unlock. Very embarrassing when people see you trying frantically to get in your own car and you end up climbing in through the roof or passenger side.

The problem seems to be a tiny spring inside the lock mechanism itself. Mines broken off and it looks like I would need a new lock to fix the problem as I cannot reach the spring to replace it. However, the lock doesn't stick all the time, just now and again and I've sussed out that if you keep turning the key and pulling the handle eventually it will unlock.

Frustrating I know but I don't fancy having to replace my lock just for that little spring. Unless someone has any better ideas?(11/99)

a full set of locks

and ignition!(11/99)

This weekend I'm going to take the door trim off to see if anything is catching on the lock mechanism.

Have you taken the trim off before? If not here's quick guide. Remove the three screws from the armrest (one is hidden behind a plug). Pull off the speaker surround. Remove the screw from behind the internal door catch and remove the catch surround. Pop off the trim at the bottom and sides and then lift it clear. Watch out for the black gorilla snot - nasty stuff! I can now do this in about one minute! One inside you should be able to see the problem and fix it with some bending of bars and lubrication. I use silicone for most of these types of jobs.(11/99)

There would be six locks to replace in total.:-
Driver's door;
Passenger's door;
Ignition;
Boot;
Glove box;
and the lock for the petrol catch and boot catch section.

I don't really fancy that job!(11/99)

Pull of the speaker surround

This is not necessary on later Mk1's

I had exactly this problem on my Mk 1 recently. The lock would open only if you pulled the handle at the same time. I eventually sorted it out last weekend in only about half-an-hour. Mine has retrofitted central locking but the basic original mechanism is still in place - the actuator is attached by a clamp to the operating bar connecting handle to door lock. I took the armrest and handle trim off; the panel then just unclips after the loudspeaker surround has been unclipped first. The panel by the way was rusted along the bottom where there was a steel strip now turned to dust... I then started oiling everything accessible (without removing the transparent plastic sheet) using ordinary oil. The mechanism became significantly freer when I lubricated the handle mechanism so I suspect the problem was mainly there. I also oiled the window guides at the same time and the (electric) window now goes up and down much better - I'll have to get around to doing the other side too.

By the way I partly knew what I was doing after locking the keys in the boot (early 5's don't have a remote release) and waiting four hours for firstly an unsuccessful attempt at breaking in by the AA and a locksmith (I suppose that proves something!), followed by disassembly of the door by the locksmith to extract the lock barrel and make a replacement key. I'd locked the keys in when I stopped to polish the car on the way to Billing last year!!! (11/99)

Why not swap driver and passenger locks? If this works then it seems like a good solution - who needs a working passenger lock!

Chances are there's a left & right lock. (11/99)

I think the code was inscribed on the lock barrel.

Or a Mazda dealer can look on their computer and get your key code from the chassis number. (11/99)

Yep, sounds like a problem I have too. I got this problem since my car had a respray, and I guess the people who did it removed the lock &.... Completely. I have an alarm-remote-cental locking thing, when I want to open it (the drivers door) by pressing my remote, I hear a click (sometimes a little louder then normal). With the loud click, the door is open. The pasengers door always opens, no problem. I removed the door trimm (is that how you call that inside?) and locked & unlocked the door. I know the problem, the motor (servo?) that moves the bar in the door moves everytime like it should, but sometimes not enough to unlock the door & yes, this can be (rarely for my- touch wood) a real problem, sometimes I can't get in!! I'm wondering how strong is a genuine mazda key? Mine is a little bended, maybe someday I break it, trying to open the door by key, and then the mx5 is gonna leave me stranded!!

I know a way to open the car when it is locked, I'm not gonna tell the list, so every owner can sleep on both ears.

An advice? Check the little bar, see if it moves, if it does, good luck, I didn't repair mine & the expert I know in the club who stripped my car for the respray couldn't fix it eather. Its just a bad alarmsystem, I guess. But no way I'm gonna replace it!. I'd rather buy a new softtop (I'm planning to wait 'till it's totaly worn) Good luck, it's hard to look at the lock in that door inside! (11/99)

I know the problem, the motor (servo?) that moves the bar in the door moves everytime like it should, but sometimes not enough to unlock the door & yes, this can be (rarely for my- touch wood) a real problem, sometimes I can't get in!!

If you want to try a new servo I found the Maplin 7.99ukp motor was a direct drop-in replacement for mine. But as all these things are aftermarket you may need to do some bending and bolting. (11/99)

Chances are there's a left & right lock.

Nope you can swap locks L->R->L OK. (on a mk1 anyhow) I had to do this when some scum tried to nick the 'lego racer' last year If someone tries it again I'm gonna have to go in through the roof (11/99).

It's quite easy to get the circlip off, much more difficult to get it back on!!! A pair of thin neck pliers will get the circlip off but there is a better way of tackling this job ;-)

You mentioned the 2cm hole... Get a 1/4" ratchet/socket set, you'll need a 10mm socket and extension out of this.

1. Unclip the vertical rod that is connected to the lock itself.
2. Undo both the nuts that retain the handle/lock mechanism to the door. You can see one of them by shining a light at the mechanism and staring through that 2cm hole that you mentioned. The other nut is on the left hand side of the mechanism.
3. You should now be able to pull the handle/lock mechanism from the outside. You'll only have about a 4"-5" gap to play with cos there are another rod still connected, you don't need to remove the whole handle so best to leave the other rod connected to save time.
4. You should now be able to remove the circlip and replace within 30 seconds :-)

Something else I should add. If you don't want to suffer the wrath of the " Devil Gum", get hold of a small stanley type knife or a scalpel. Pull a corner of the plastic cover until you can use the knife on the black gum and cut your way through. It's nice and cold this time of the year so you can get a clean cut through the gum. When it's time to put the plastic cover back on, line up the gum and press. You'll find that it's a lot neater finish ;-) (2/00)

Sounds like the lock has been worn by the key (means they've both worn together). Mines the same on the ignition. Bad news is a dealer cut new key from the barrel code won't work.

Good news is a decent lock smith should be able to cut you one (lock smith not shoe place that happens to cut keys - I tried 3 of those and the keys wouldn't turn)

Got mine done for 3.50 and he the reset the machine though to cut it over sized. I use the copy every day and its not stiff anymore. (10/00)

Try some proper lock lubricant/de-icer. My Mazda's fine but the one on the bike has stuck in the nearly-open position so yours could still be there

p.s. or you could do what a previous owner did to my Subaru - take the door locks out - I just hope the battery doesn't run down (though the hatch still has a lock...) - and someone's tried to screwdriver the bolt head too - I know because I painted them out black and there're scratched... - does a screwdriver _really_ work? (6/01)