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I have a '92 Eunos V-Spec which has developed a really grim set of intermittent clanking noises which happen according to the follwing rules (that I have noticed): *Only happens after I have been driving for 5 minutes or so.
I noticed from the archives that someone else had a similar problem and wobbly brake pads were mentioned, I have recently had all of the brake pads replaced, and I saw the copper grease going in reasonable quantities.... All suggestions appreciated, trying to minimise those garage costs. (3/00) |
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Sounds to me like the garage haven't put the spring clips back on your brake pads. Try going over a bumpy surface, ideally with the roof down, or at least the window open. Listen to see if it does it (even in a straight line?). If it does, go over that same strech of road again but with the brakes applied, accelerate at the same time if neccessary (I hold no responsibility for any accident though!) If it stops when the brakes are applied then it is definately this. If so, get the garage to replace the spring clips that stop the pads from rattling, if it didn't do it before, then they have obviously forgotten to put the clips back on from your old pads, kick ass! If not, then sorry... I tried. (3/00) |
| I've got a similar problem that started when going around right-hand sweeping bends, and certain speeds, but is now all the time and I can now feel it in the brake pedal. I'll let you know what the garage doing my MOT tomorrow finds... Hopefully not too expensive! (3/00) |
| If the car has an after market exhaust with a large tail pipe (more than 3"), the tip can bang on the rear tow hook bracket going through right hand turns.Check the exhaust is secure. For aftermarket exhausts, Bill Cardell recommends taking up the stretch in some of the rearmost rubber hangers with hose clips or heavy duty nylon straps. I found these worked well with the Mongoose system. (3/00) |
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Yeah - and if you've got an aftermarket header (manifold) that can touch too. I have a Super Drager header, and it has two huge pipes where it passes close to the front subframe instead of the one small standard one. (It's still part of the header where it passes the subframe - the standard set up is normal exhaust pipe by then). Consequently there's about 2mm clearance instead of the recommended 25mm It touches on right handers, especially on a trailing throttle (when you catch someone up on a long fast bend and have to back off) and also under braking. I'm gradually improving matters by substituting Polyflex polyurethane hangers (see the Demon Tweeks catalogue) instead of the standard rubber ones. But if you can feel a knocking through the brake pedal, it's probably that the pad springs (on rear brakes) or shims haven't been replaced. These posts always seem to say "I recently had my brake pads replaced" !!! (3/00) |
| I've used a couple of nylon straps to great effect to "squeeze" the stock hangers; now the tail pipe is nicely centred in the bumper cutout, and no knocking noises going around corners (3/00) |
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Well folks after some test driving with the comments from the group borne in mind I have found that the clanky noises when steering are definitely brake related. If I brake whilst turning, voila: "clank-creak!" no brakes, no noises. Strange though, I saw the front pads being fitted and all the clips that came off went back on to my knowledge....could it be that the UK pads are slightly different to the Jap ones I had? I seem to remember that I had to go back to the garage because the UK92 pads they ordered were never going to fit my 92 Eunos and they had to order others. I think UK94 pads went on in the end. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Looks like I shall have to improve my driving technique and not brake whilst turning. Oh lazy me, what will I do? (3/00) |
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My 5 failed its MOT on ... wait for it... Front Brake Discs! They were shagged! They weren't cracked or warped they had *corroded* all over the inner faces. It looked as though the steel alloy hadn't been *mixed* properly. The reason they knocked was because there was a particularly large corroded area on the nearside disc that was raised around the edges and indented towards the middle. Obviously the pad had been catching on the raised bit. Mechanic (70 odd) said it was ".....bloody crap Japanese metal......" that had caused it. Maybe just a bad batch. Otherwise they weren't too bad. I suspect if it had been British metal, there would have been very little left! ;-) Cost for discs were £70.45 per pair from local Mazda dealer. Local garage charged me £75 to do MOT, fit brake discs, resurface (nearly new) old pads, and change brake fluid. Thought that was a bargain! (3/00) |
| Money .. for old rope.. Did the brakes pass the efficiency test? and was there meat left on the pads .. if so it should have passed. I suspect he did not like the look of them .. get a dodgy Citroen with solid wheels and disc covers at the back so they cannot see the state of the brakes .. then they can only test them on efficiency .. as they should. (3/00) |
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I did let the guy know about the problem and ask him to look onto it. Whether or not it should have passed is pretty irrelevant, because it really did need sorting out. It really had begun to be a BIG problem lately, as the brake pedal pulsated as well as the constant knocking sound. To be honest I would have probably paid the same amount to have the car checked out to find the problem at a Mazda garage, let alone have the problem diagnosed, sorted, MOTd, and brake fluid changed! BTW I asked him to change the brake fluid while he was at it. Yes there was plenty left on the pads, although the garage wasn't keen on putting the used ones back on. It was only because I told them they hadn't been on too long that they contemplated it. They did flat them off again because there was so much left. (They were the Metalmaster ones from Moss BTW) At no point did they try to sell me any of their discs/pads that they had sourced, infact they encouraged me to ring around and find the discs I wanted, whether cheapest or uprated etc. It was because Mazda had them in / MOT had run out / local parts place were same price, that I got them from Mazda. If I had worked it out 6 months ago like I should have, I would have got some uprated discs at the same time I got the uprated pads! :-( I am now satisfied with the result, as I no longer have a knocking, or vibration when braking. I was planning on spending £200+ as I thought (before I could feel it in the brake pedal) that it was the wheel bearing. Mazda price was £170+VAT just to supply last time I enquired! I understand what you are saying about the efficiency test, but surely if the brake pedal is moving up and down due to braking, this "should" fail? There is obviously a problem with the braking system, and I wanted it sorting! (3/00) |
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... ah you left out the some of the symptoms .. cannot remember everyone's car!.. you did have a pedal feel issue and it has gone away .. so there was a problem and they fixed it ... I have a granular surface on my discs sometimes ... and suspect the metalmasters + standing + corrosion .. but I have no pedal feel issues ... sounds like you had varying material from a production problem which varied the coefficient of friction as the discs rotated.. .. if the pedal moved up and down that is warped discs .. I suspect you felt the differing deceleration rates from the varying friction .. this may not fail the MOT .. but could with a diligent tester. (3/00) |
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I had a more careful look at the disc/pad arrangements on my little (shinier than last friday) baby and saw what I believe is the problem as per directions from the dist-list rabble. If the spring clips that people have mentioned are protruding wire clips of about 1mm diameter which look decidedly springy, then I only have one: on my right hand rear wheel. None on the front and none on the left rear. Can someone verify that these clips should be visible on the topside of the pads on both rear wheels, and somewhere on the front pads? I don't want to fly into a controlled rage at my garage unless I'm sure the bits arent' there. ;) (3/00) |
| Yep - sort of M-shaped springs. (Official name - M-springs) One at the top of each pair of rear pads. None on the fronts. The fronts use 4 springy guide plates at the top and bottom of each pad, and this holds them firmly. The rears have one guide plate at top and bottom of each pair of pads, plus the M-spring. (At least - this was the original 1.6 set-up) (3/00) |
| There are 2 types of springs.. pair of large flat stainless steel to keep pads from clanking in the housing.. one top per pair of pads .. one bottom i.e. 2 per wheel (i.e. rotating) two 1mm springs to force the pads away from the disc .. top&bottom = 2 per wheel .. and yes it is visible. (3/00) |
| To see a description of how to change MX-5 brake pads including pictures which show the springs & clips involved, take a look at the following website: http://www.miata.net/garage/brakepad.html (3/00) |
| After getting some new brake discs last week, they've started making some strange noises. The front right disc is making a scraping noise, and when going around sweeping right hand bends, it squeals. I took the wheel off to have a look, and everything looked alright apart from the disc itself. It looked as thought there was some "melted" brake pad material stuck to the disc. After rubbing this off with some very fine sandpaper, the noise went away. It has now returned again after about a day. Any ideas? (3/00) |
| Did you clean the discs? New ones come covered with wax - you need to clean it off with brake cleaner (from accessory shops or motor factors) (3/00) |
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Squealing brakes are normally a sign of vibrating pads .. do the new pads have any backing plates .. these sit between the caliper piston and the pads .. and from my memory they are clipped onto the pads on a 1.8 .. and the fitter may have overlooked them .. they are about 0.8mm thick in painted/coated black steel and cover the whole of the back of the pad. Sometimes a spot of grease here stops them vibrating. What did the pads look like .. my metalmasters do not clean up the pad to a shinny surface that you would expect .. the surface has a rough appearance rather than the smooth 'chrome plated' effect you expect... .. and scraping all the time sounds like brakes sticking on .. try to rotate the wheel with the car jacked up .. they should be easy to turn. .. the piston may stick if the outer disc gaiters are torn .. or if the sliding pins are not free and greased.. (3/00) |