Does anyone on the list have brake ducts fitted?
The reason I'm asking is that when my brakes heat up, they judder. When I drive slowly, and brake early, then I have no probs. Needless to say, when I do prolong heaving braking, it gets unpleasant. The wheels have been recently balanced (they're almost brand new), and I tighten the nuts in the correct order (not sure if this makes any difference...)
If I let the brakes cool off when the juddering occurs, it goes away! (funny that!) (4/00)
How thin are your discs .. could be too thin/worn so changing shape under temperature/load .. the other variable would be to change your pad material .. but not likely to help here. (4/00)

I had problems with warping a lot of brake discs - I went through about 3 sets (skimming them replacing) as I suspect the BBR turbo wheels were cutting the airflow to the discs.

In the end I went for the Moss grooved discs and high performance pads: result - no warping and a better feel especially when hot (eg at mallory... I'm seriously chicken in corners ;) )

They're also cheaper than the genuine mazda parts. (4/00)

Yesterday, as I made a five minute journey home in the heat (what a day !!) I noticed a little drag in the car (and that's not a four foot man dressed as Shirley Temple !!). It wasn't very pronounced, so I continued around the corner and pulled into my drive a few minutes later (should've stopped when I first noticed it .. there's a lesson to be learned there !!). Got out of the car to the smell of burning rubber and smoke billowing from the rear drivers wheel arch. Brake Pad had obviously locked (well that's what I assume it is) and had been rubbing all the way home - man the smell. I took the wheel off to have a look (the heat generated was something else - the wheel nuts were too hot to handle ... bit like myself !!) I didn't have much of a look - as I didn't really know what I was looking for - typical. Will check the caliper-viewer thingy later tonight to see how much rubber has been worn down.

The questions are as follows:

1) Ever happened to anyone else, and what are the possible causes for the jam

2) Do people change their own pads, or is it a job I should throw a garages way - I'm not 100% on all things mechanical - but if it's relatively easy I'll give it a go

3) What type of brake pads do people use for the "5", and how much? (6/00)

You don't necessarily need new pads.

You may have a seized caliper (piston) or the sliding pins may have seized. (These allow the whole caliper to slide side to side) A seized piston means a rebuild kit (warning - Mazda dealers will try to sell you a new caliper at huge expense) - they are not that easy to come by but I believe Blueprint now do them (?) or get them from the US (eg from Finishline Performance).

The rebuild is straightforward, but not to be recommended if you haven't stripped a caliper before. MX-5 rear calipers are much more complex than most cars' brake calipers - you definitely need a manual - and not Haynes - they just tell you it's too complicated. Powerdrift usually have calipers available - I think Jay will exchange them. The sliding pins may just need cleaning and greasing - easy if you can get them apart. You may find the gaiters on the sliding pins perished - replacement kits are available.

Whatever you find - do both sides. (6/00)
2: If it was just pads I'd say DIY. But as it looks like your calipers need some TLC I'd find a local garage who can do it. This is exactly what I did a couple of weeks ago as I wanted an eye more expert than mine to check the condition of the calipers, disks and pads. (6/00)